Just remember, if the CPS gets more "intermittant", and you decide to replace the one that's in there, I'd like to have your old one for testing.

I'll pay the postage.

Pop

Same thing happened to me before changing it out - Idled real good in the driveway, I got kinda cocky and took it for a drive, was towing it home 10 minutes later.

Whats the overall opinion, dielectric grease, or not?

-Jason

[QUOTE=SpringerPop]Just remember, if the CPS gets more "intermittant", and you decide to replace the one that's in there, I'd like to have your old one for testing.



What have you found to be inside these devices?? I am still thinking only coil and magnetic reluctor. Let me know, Thx beforehand.

2000 PSD CC LOOOOOng bed 6 sp bone stock as from the factory for the next 20 yrs (at least)<img>.

Haven't "chewed" one open yet. I want to get some experience with a few of them before I start distroying any.

As I said in Post #40, I gotta build some kind of device to measure relative magnetic strengths somewhat accurately for each one. Still thinking about the design for that.

After I do, I'll start chewing into those that are more "hard" failures, not intermittant. If I find they are epoxy potted, I'll need to get some epoxy stripper to do the work for me.

Pop

Some thoughts come to mind: a "gauss" meter that is used in the electronic trades to determine flux strength. rentable from some online test equip places. If you are FLUKE equipped, and have a piece of steel, you could measure the voltages induced by moving the steel bar accross the face of the sensor. down side: need accurate speed on the bar, and accurate distance shims from the reluctor. I suspect you could also use a reactance bridge, or make one of your own with a couple of condensors. An old Dodge electronic ignition module and measure how far away you can detect the steel bar when the module fires.

How about throwing a voltage accross another CPS and measuring the induced EMF in the test CPS?

real primitive: how far away a compass needle is affected by the magnet, since gauss is proportional to distance [squared, i think].

If you have a magnaflux unit, use the powder stuff to do the flux lines on the reading device; once again flux strength decreases with distance.

sorry, rocket scientist in me took over again. Your mileage will vary

BTW the epoxy stripper will also eat the insulation off the wires in the coil, making it somewhat more useless.

As I wrote in Post #40, above, I WAS thinking more along the lines of using an old Boy Scout pocket compass! I'm not going to breadboard up a test circuit at this time, and maybe we can get enough information out of this completely without it. I may bring out some pigtails from my engine's harness, though, to look at each with an 0-scope for noise and signal level variations.

As for the epoxy stripper, if I go to that extent, it will be only to see the physical layout of the internals, and to look for anywhere that solder (or forbid WELDS) are coming apart. But that, too, is down the road.

So far, I have only received the one from Jason. If anybody would like to send me one, PM me for my address. I'll pay the shipping.

Pop

new comments: OOPs, read # 40 AFTER the comment. D'oh. sorry

O scope while driving??

cuppa boiling water immersion test for intermittance?

Shaker table??

No, I think the o-scope work will have to be limited to idling in the driveway. http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums...lies/smile.gif

The "thermal" testing of boiled water is about my current speed! I'll try it.

No shaker table, but I could whip up something, I suppose. Set it on top of the air compressor in the garage? We'll see.

Need more than one test subject, though.

Pop

Well being from Kansas, I done the Dorthy thing this morning (you know, click your heels together 3 times...ref: Wizard of OZ). unpluggged and plugged in 3 times along with spraying some contact cleaner and so far, so good.

I do have my 10m wrench, a screwdriver and a new CPS in the glove box just in case.

Plug and unplug sounds interesting. My first CPS made about 60K, the second one was acting up after 10K, the third started failing after 2 - 3 K. It seems something besides the sensor itself might be faulty, and the unplug routine works on my travel trailer plug after not having used it for a while.

springer pop: been thinking that the rate of returns is going to be small for a while because them stealership techs (hahahaha:techs, hahaha) WANT the old cps as some sort of hostage if they fix the problem. You may want to start a new thread asking for broken ones.

I really don't want an overwhelmiong amount of them, anyway, especially all at one time. Remember I'm offering to pay the postage on them?

A few trickling in every once in a while would be ideal. No more than a couple a week would be about right, I suppose.

So far, we're a couple of weeks into this, and I've received only one so far, but more are on their way if all went well.

Keep me in mind to send your old, intermittant ones to. PM me for the address.

Pop

Hi, Im new to this site so forgive me if I do something wrong. I have a 2002 super duty with the 7.3 engine. The truck runs great and has about 125,000 miles on it with no problems at all. The only thing I noticed lately was a slight hesitation or stumble when I pressed on the accellerator from a stop light. Its very slight but noticable and it only happened twice. It seems that the cps sensor could be my problem. Any thoughts.. Thanks Bob

Sounds like one on it's way out. Buy a new one just in case it's going out, but try the un-plug re-plug 3 or 4 times theory first. If it's still the problem, replace it and send your old one to Pop. I think he'll even pay the postage. Or, you could just play it safe and replace it now - still send your old one to Pop though.

jayco20002000 - See my current post:

ATTN Hesitators: New CPS cured my hesitation

I had a similar issue and a new CPS appears to have solved it.