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More work done. time for another beer.
looks like the sandwich plate is 3/8's, not 3/16's. also, my hitch is not an Atwood like Hit Man X's, but its a Buyer's Product Co. Also its older than my truck. That's most likely because this has been installed since the beginning of 1995. Plan now is to clean up the plates, round the edges, paint, and replace with grade 8 carriage bolts. Are two bolts in the sides and top going to be enough? Or should I add more while I'm this far in? https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1601a501ce.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c2f9091cd4.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...ca753bf3d1.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3b7b6ace98.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8c7c3e8bb2.jpg Cant even tell where it was :D |
Keep me posted, I may replace more fasteners below if needed. I know not much about these goose setups.
My seven pin in bed is a nice Curt setup. They have a piggyback setup with harness for the truck bed and the opposite end taps into the seven pin mounted by the bumper or where ever it is at. I like clean and neat stuff. I had to find two used, OE plugs in the junkyard to fit the Curt seven pin at bumper. One grey and one black sounds right. All crimped and heat shrunk! |
At the advice of Hit Man X, I ordered the master cylinder brake switch that Ford recalled back in the day. While it hasn't been an issue so far, there is no telling when something 25 years old is going to quit, or in this case, start leaking oil and catch my truck on fire. Below I linked Eric's experience swapping out the switch. Literally took me longer to go get the step, grab the wrenches and pop the hood than it did actually swapping the part out.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-control.html https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c754bd9d59.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8206996e81.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a415fb1a91.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0f5fcefb0d.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...be7a13eee3.jpg Yucky old switch pulled out. Requires a 9/16's open end wrench to remove. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...707b4f414f.jpg Fancy new switch installed. Requires a 7/8's open end wrench to install. |
This is great! Very clean truck.
Any plans for the next thing? Maybe trans stuff? Tugger kit, coon mod, etc? |
Originally Posted by Jarrett Campbell
(Post 19405679)
This is great! Very clean truck.
Any plans for the next thing? Maybe trans stuff? Tugger kit, coon mod, etc? I'm collecting stuff to do the vent tank mods, a 38 Gal rear tank, redo some fuel lines with 3/8's and firesleeve, remount the spare tire with 5/8's rod, and do a variation of the hutch mod in tanks using stainless steel compression fittings. Other than that I want to redo my driveshaft u joints and carrier bearing, paint the shaft, and after that will be the cross over to the T4 dark side. Haven't looked into trans stuff too much yet. I really want a built trans like a Sam Wyse or a BTS or similar. Buuuuuut that probably won't happen since I have 20k on my current E4OD. What's the hot ticket in valve bodies and TC's for these trans? |
Awesome truck and amazing work you've done. I have added a few items to my own ever growing list after reading through this. I wish my engine bay was as clean as yours!
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
(Post 19406360)
Awesome truck and amazing work you've done. I have added a few items to my own ever growing list after reading through this. I wish my engine bay was as clean as yours!
My engine bay only looks clean from the top. Behind the P/S bracket and at the exhaust manifolds and below it's real dirty.:-X03 I figure it's never going to be show room clean, so I'll do the best I can to keep things oiled, free of dirt and rust as possible. I used to love mudding and stuff as a teenager, not so much anymore. I'd rather have things as clean as possible to reduce corrosion and other issues. |
Originally Posted by Khan
(Post 19406310)
Thanks! It's been a work in progress for sure, lots of sweat, blood, and swear words. :-drink
I'm collecting stuff to do the vent tank mods, a 38 Gal rear tank, redo some fuel lines with 3/8's and firesleeve, remount the spare tire with 5/8's rod, and do a variation of the hutch mod in tanks using stainless steel compression fittings. Other than that I want to redo my driveshaft u joints and carrier bearing, paint the shaft, and after that will be the cross over to the T4 dark side. Haven't looked into trans stuff too much yet. I really want a built trans like a Sam Wyse or a BTS or similar. Buuuuuut that probably won't happen since I have 20k on my current E4OD. What's the hot ticket in valve bodies and TC's for these trans? |
Originally Posted by BBslider001
(Post 19406806)
BTS is pretty much the best way to go for all thing auto with the E4OD. Brian is top notch. I would not go anywhere else.
Also ordered some XRP fittings last night to mess around with the fuel lines. One thing I don't like about the Dieselsite E fuel is how the engine lines are routed. Feeding one head and crossing over is fine, but all the loops and back and forths are going to be taken care of. On an tuning related note, who are the big dogs these days? I'll be looking to swap when I do the T4 later this year.... |
Curious to see how you clean up the routing of the fuel lines. Share photos if you can. Enjoying the thread. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by kmjone00
(Post 19406866)
Curious to see how you clean up the routing of the fuel lines. Share photos if you can. Enjoying the thread. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by Khan
(Post 19406847)
I've heard great things about them. I really wanted to convert this truck to a ZF5 but given all the work to do that I'll just stick with an auto... I can definitely say I like it more now that the shifting isn't as bad with the tunes on there. I can only imagine what a built trans with triple TC and VB can do.
Also ordered some XRP fittings last night to mess around with the fuel lines. One thing I don't like about the Dieselsite E fuel is how the engine lines are routed. Feeding one head and crossing over is fine, but all the loops and back and forths are going to be taken care of. On an tuning related note, who are the big dogs these days? I'll be looking to swap when I do the T4 later this year.... Tuning is all over the map. I am sure someone else will chime in. My tuner guy is a recluse and only tunes when he sees the need....but he's the best in the biz IMO. |
Originally Posted by BBslider001
(Post 19407030)
ZF-5!!!!! But I digress. I will NEVER tow any length of distance with an auto again. Manuals are my jam, so don't listen to me.
Tuning is all over the map. I am sure someone else will chime in. My tuner guy is a recluse and only tunes when he sees the need....but he's the best in the biz IMO. I've heard great things about Cody's tuning. Maybe some day I'll get to try it.... who knows. :confused: |
I wonder who on this forum has successfully reman a ZF S5-47...in their living room? :cool:
If you have a stock converter, that is hurting your running temps and I am sure laying out the power. When I had my 6.4, the PI triple disc made a HUGE difference in performance. Towing and flat out accelerating. |
Originally Posted by Khan
(Post 19407088)
Care to share? Can't be worse than me shifting in and out of O/D going up a hill because the trans wanted to do it's thing and overheating it.... Wouldn't have happened with a ZF that's for sure. :-X14
I've heard great things about Cody's tuning. Maybe some day I'll get to try it.... who knows. :confused: |
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