Talked to a buddy whos been a gearhead since he was old enough to drive and worked for ford before going to military and screwing his back up.
Hes surprised im having this much problems with the v10.
He says I should try replacing o2s that they dont always trigger a code, i thought about replacing them but getting tired of throwing blind money at it.
Said he would try that then check fuel pressure.

What do you guys think?

I think you may have an ECM problem but first,
1. Duct tape does readily conduct electricity, did you remove it from the splice?
2. I remember a thread about someone swapping engines and using the wrong tone ring- that is why I asked you about the engine or ECM being swapped- try to see if all of the VIN's match

Any idea where the ecm is on these vans?

I think I figured out whats wrong.
Was reading on the P0340 cam sensor code and kept seeing reference to a bad battery as a culprit so I searched for an hour this morning for my multimeter that I couldnt find and it was in my sons closet.... why you little........ lol

Anyway. Battery at rest is 11.22v and running is only 10.8v, while running I unhooked the neg of the battery and it instantly died so pretty sure my alternator is no good or have a bad connection on it.

Too bad I just dumped all this money in other parts and just ordered a fuel press test kit and new motorcraft 02s last night.
Oh well....if I get her straightened out at least ill have lots of new parts on it.

The chirping ive heard when this van is running must of been the alternator, i got it out and can hear the chirp hand spinning it like the bearings are going bad.
The plug had water in it and it and the connector are completely rusted out...one pin is completely rotted away.

Its raining outside and noticed the upper windshield corners are leaking and routing water to inside floorboards (maybe window sealant shot inside the corners would stop the leak) I dont know if this leak is somehow diverted into the engine compartment but alot of stuff was wet on the engine.
The hood weather seal wasnt pushed into the lip and could of been getting wet motor from this. I pulled it off and plan to clean the seal and silicone it back on.

Anyway... the alternator looks like its been getting wet with every rain. I wonder if that helped take out the bearings?
Ill need to buy a new alternator and order a new connector, the battery is on the charger but its just pulsing so dont think it will hold a full charge.

Hopefully with a new alt and battery this thing will run right.
What do you guys think? Is this the probable cause? Was only 10.8v running.

As an aside it's not good practice to remove the negative battery cable to test the alternator's function.

At an idle using your multimeter voltage from a normally operating alternator should be just at 14.3 volts max. Watching the DMM have someone turn on the headlights, blower on high seeing if the voltage fluctuates then rebounds immediately.

I bought a "cheap" battery/charging system tester gently used through eBay that does a number of tests---well worth the investment if you're a regular DIY kinda guy.

Low voltage can cause all sorts of things, it's certainly not helping }>

Soldering new connector on now. Alt is in the mail. I hope one of these weeks this thing will run right so i can start on the inside conversion

I have the same van a mine was leaking from the seams in the rain gutters above the windshield l dug out the old seam sealer and replaced it with new seam sealer and then I repainted it with touch up paint it's been good for 3 years now

What sealer did you use?

New alternator and o2s came in today.
Installed and its running better! I have inside gutted so drove around block sitting on a bucket, got on it on an empty deadend and flew off my bucket and had to run back up to steering wheel and mash on brakes...lol
Ok ... not funny but it was. Was deadend with no kids around. So it ran much better, has power again and the new alt is keeping me over 14.2v . BUT.... I still got a check engine light and parked idling it seems to stumble every few revolutions. Need to get it out and give it wide open throttle and see what it does.

I plugged cheapie scanner in....in hopes it would pull codes with full voltage but same deal,it notices 1 code but cant display it. Im assuming its the same code....cam sensor.
I erased codes and its still idleing funny. Kind of lost now but at least it runs good.

It still has that hole in the precat or resonator or whatever it is and i have it ran to where there is just the cat and a muffler after the y pipe. Im wondering if the loss of backpressure could be a cause.....doubt it but....?

Ya....i got it sitting here idling and it almost died. Runs good though and got rid of the pulley squeek when replacing alt.

Sounds like you are using that code reader wrong. If it tells you there is 1 code set, it will tell you the code #. Read the directions on how to use it.

Its only 2 buttons. It works fine on my other vehicles. Once you pull up the fault code menu you hit the scroll button to get the actual codes. On one of my crown vics it shows the o2 code because I did a cat delete and ran mechanical downstream mil eliminators and they still trip a code every once in a while but not bad enough to trigger the cel.
On the van it states 1 fault code but when I scroll down it shows code as NA.
My other scanner wont even connect.
Only the innova I rented has worked sofar

Did you clear the codes with the code reader?

I did.... still noticed stumbling at idle but no code yet. Might drive it around block again tonight