if you don't mind, please take good notes, document any tips and tricks, and post them here. I've got the same kit and plan to do all 10 as preventative maintenance this summer. My plan was to do one per evening.

Will do. I'll probably video it too.

Thanks.

Great Scott! I see a V10 but no Accufab SCTB! You must rectify this immediately, if not sooner!

Also, I have a Volant intake that needs a new home :-jammin

Accufab is on the list. I have a tendency to snowball my projects, so I am trying to be a responsible adult here :-missingt. My wife tells me I have been failing in that department :D

New Toyo ATIII’s

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1033195df.jpeg
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I haven't actually installed them yet, but Wednesday evening about 7pm I ordered the spyntec front hub assembly kit I've been looking at for awhile.
I ordered from Diesel Power Products for no particular reason other than they popped up when I was searching. Haven't had any prior experience with them or even heard of them really.
It included free shipping which said economy shipping - 6-10 business days. So I wasn't at all expecting FedEx to pull in today , less than 3 days later, with two boxes full of front hub parts! Feels like Christmas.
Anyway, I was just stoked they showed up so quickly. Unfortunately, I already had a full weekend of projects planned so I'll have to wait for next weekend to tackle that one.

Over the past few weeks (4/20/24 - 5/25/24), the truck went through major surgery at the local shop. It all started with noticing a large delta (EOT vs. ECT) of almost 30-40*. Some of it was to address issues that could have led to potentially catastrophic damage. Since the engine was comping out of the truck to be worked upon, I had some additional work performed as preventive maintenance to alleviate potential issues from creeping up. Here's the list of parts, in no specific order, that were installed/replaced/repaired etc.. Unless otherwise mentioned, replacement parts were all OEM.

• Dieselsite Oil cooler
• Dorman Coolant reservoir
• FixUr6 Oil Cooler flush adapter
• Head Gaskets
• Glow plugs & harnesses
• Heads removed, resurfaced, rebuilt etc.
• Intake & Exhaust valves
• Valve cover gaskets
• Dieselsite billet water pump
• HPOP discharge tube
• ICP, IPR, IAT, EBP Sensors
• EGR Valve
• 6.4 transmission pan with larger filter
• turbo wheel
• fan clutch
• belt tensioner, new belt
• starter
• injectors cleaned and reinstalled with new O-rings
• New head bolts
• stand pipes, dummy plugs
• rear main seal
• crankshaft seal
• oil pan gasket
• push rod clips
• 240A Alternator from FICMRepair
• Big 3 cables from Performance Custom Cables
• KYB Rear shocks
• SCT X4 tuner from Blessed Performance, running the street tune (I needed the tuner to get rid of the CEL for EGR delete done by the 1st owner)
• New front brake calipers and pads
• Radiator
• Fluids removed/flushed/replaced - oil, coolant, brake, differential, transmission
• A/C recharged
• Engine bay was degreased, cleaned, painted, and Firewall covered with Kilmat
• Heater core flushed

I am sure I am missing a few more items, but pretty much everything under the hood was touched. Some pre-during-post pics attached here....


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@unleashd WOW everything, but the kitchen sink eh lol.

Curious how the cost of all the parts/labor compares to a rebuild crate engine from a reputable supplier? All that looks like 15-20 grand or there abouts.

From what I read/researched, I wasn't very convinced to buy a rebuilt engine. The only one that Id have considered would have been a KDD long block which was more than twice my budget just for the engine. I did come well under your estimates for the work done :)

no pictures, the Rollback came in the drive and loaded up whilst I was watching a movie.... :(

but the '02 Excursion is now at the Mechanic's shop for total cooling system replacement.
the water pump is locked up SOLID, it will not turn, period.

bought all new spinning parts, a Gates Water Pump, and a Hayden Fan clutch, and Murray Radiator.

Hoses were new from NAPA a year ago.

I video'd it the best I could.

Here are my observations/recommendations, in no particular order:
1. You need to adjust your thought process about shavings in the combustion chamber. We have been taught all our lives to make sure the combustion chambers are free of debris, yet to save this modular engine, you dump handful of shavings into it. This is where beer comes in handy.
2. Good air compressor is needed to test if the valves are closed, and then to blow the shavings out of the combustion chamber. We used a blow gun with a 3' roll of vacuum hose.
3. Brake cleaner. We used it to dislodge some of the shavings that the air gun couldn't get to.
4. A good boroscope with a mirror to visually check if the valves are closed, and if the combustion chamber is clean after blowing the shavings.
5. If you have a good shop vac and can make an adapter to a hose that can fit the spark plug hole, you can vacuum the shavings also. I didn't, so we used the air gun.
6. Removing the entire air filter assembly opened up a lot of room on the driver's side.
7. There is no room to put a socket and pry bar on the crank to rotate the engine manually on the V10 without taking the fan and shroud out. You guys are more experienced than I, so you might know of a way. We used the starter solenoid to bump the engine to get the piston to BDC and valves closed.
8. Change the oil and filter after the first start. Some tiny specs may go through.
9. An angle battery powered 3/8" ratchet works best for reaming the original hole. You don't need anything high powered.
10. A 3/8" long handle ratchet works best for the rear cylinders when running the tap.
11. A good lubricant for the reamer and tap. Do not use grease to "capture" the shavings, in case any falls in the combustion chamber, it would be tough to remove.
12. Take your time.
14. Have a beer.
15. If your time allows, do one per night, so you don't rush anything. Making sure the piston is down in the cylinder and the valves are closed will take time and patience.
16. New spark plugs, and new coils for the cylinders where plug got blown off and the coil bracket got broken.
17. Magnetic spark plug sockets and extensions.
18. Safety glasses. Those shavings fly everywhere.
19. A second set of hands comes in handy, if possible.
20. A good work light.

This is doable by anyone with the basic understanding of tools and engines (most of us here.)

Let me know if I missed anything, or have any comments on how I did the repair.

Thanks. I have learned quite a bit from this site, and I hope I can help some.

I don't get it. Why put that much time, effort and money into a 6.0? Even afterwards you still have a 6.0, better than factory for sure, but it's still a flawed design, just with better band-aids holding it together.

You could've put any number of other better designed and more reliable, engines from whatever manufacturer you're loyal to (say you like international engines , the 6.0 is an international, then the DT360 could've been used) in the place of that 6.0 for the same money and actually fixed the root cause of the reliability issues. Obviously you're not too adverse to non OEM stuff considering the list of aftermarket parts above, so why not ditch the problematic 6.0 all together?
...

What's better about a DT360?

it’s not a giant POS that breaks down constantly and requires constant babysitting by its owner to run mostly.
​​​​​…

Thanks for that informative breakdown lol.