Originally Posted by Icelink
(Post 19034191)
Sorry to hear these light are are garbage, I myself dealt with crap from morimoto, I spend a whole weekend trying to get everything working, not a chance, I sent it all back, it was 700$ worth of product, NEVER again will I deal with morimoto
I love the looks of these headlights, I was looking into them, I thought it was 1200$ for the pair, I added them to my cart and realized it was 1200$ per side!!!! I was shocked Beamtechs will be ordered shortly EDIT: My previous truck (2008 Silverado 3500 Dually LTZ) i added some 2015.5+ style mirrors from a reputable company. Within a year i had one marker/blinker light completely go out, and on the other side half of the blinker arrow in the mirror went out. The metal telescoping rods inside of the mirror arms were also rotting so bad the plastic surrounds split and they started leaving rust marks down the side of my doors... I really hate and despise crappy aftermarket now lol. |
Originally Posted by 75Mike
(Post 19037455)
Since the upfitter switches come hot with the key. I will leave the # 1 switch on. Already have the inline fuse holder for the DRL's picked out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ASG63Q45TMWV9H |
That's great, Can't wait to see them. Snowing here, so it will be a while for my install.
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I connected the DRL harness to one of the upfitter switches and it works great. No more messing with the fuse box! I think this is the cleanest solution to the DRL for the trucks with the switches.
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That's great news. Looks like it will be very clean. Did you use #1 switch? Was it a pain to get the wiring out from under the relay box? Thanks
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No my 1 and 2 have been used so I used 4. It's very easy to access the upfitter switches blunt cut wires bundle on the driver side.
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Very cool. I'm glad the upfitter switch is working, A lot cleaner than the fuse box connection tap.
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So I have the exact same issue, fuse won't go into slot 35 of the fuse block, how are you guys running to the up fitter switches? Are you just cutting the wires and soldering them and connecting to ground and then to up fitter switch of choice? Also doesn't the up fitter switches already have fuses? Why the need to add an inline fuse? and once you wired to up fitter did your Bugatti sequence work after that? and do you leave your up fitter switch on all the time?
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Just finished up installing the headlights and fog lights last weekend. Used the number 1 upfitter switch. Yes the switch stays in the on position, but is powered only with the key on. The daylights, Bugatti sequence and the auto headlight all work perfect. No need to add a ground the headlights are already grounded. The fuses amperage is too high to go with the small DRL wire ( I think it was 16 guage) Wired a fuse holder in line so I could use the 10 amp blade fuse as the 25 amp upfitter fuse would melt too much stuff if there was a fault on the harness.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6cb0564ce0.jpg |
So did you just cut the wire that is supposed to go to the fuse box and route it to the up fitter switch then?
Pics would help. I am a novice when it comes to wiring. |
Yes, cut the tap off the Morimoto DRL harness a couple heat shrink splices and you're good to go.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...555c9be5d9.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...171fec8a02.jpg |
Good to go, thanks for that buddy.
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Originally Posted by 75Mike
(Post 19175264)
Just finished up installing the headlights and fog lights last weekend. Used the number 1 upfitter switch. Yes the switch stays in the on position, but is powered only with the key on. The daylights, Bugatti sequence and the auto headlight all work perfect. No need to add a ground the headlights are already grounded. The fuses amperage is too high to go with the small DRL wire ( I think it was 16 guage) Wired a fuse holder in line so I could use the 10 amp blade fuse as the 25 amp upfitter fuse would melt too much stuff if there was a fault on the harness.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6cb0564ce0.jpg did you have to do any aiming?? i have a set in the garage that I need to put in, been reluctant to do it because of the aim procedure.. Don't really have a place I can do it.. |
I had to drop mine a couple inches, but was a piece of cake with a stubby phillips screwdriver. Just remove the wiper fluid spout and the air filter snout. Plenty of room to aim against a wall. The low beam cut off is so sharp that you just line the top edge up.
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I dropped mine a few inches also due to leveling kit on my truck, so far no-one has hit me with their brights yet so they must be aimed right lol
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