Man that's a sweet truck.

Did all the parts separate with lots of cardboard, blue tape & plugs.

Block was on the stand.

All those "all over" paint jobs on the tee-vee shows drive me nuts.

Things need to come apart from time-to-time & big chunks of paint breaking off bolt heads & mating surfaces, seams, etc. get everywhere & in everything.

This pic is actually from before my build with just some clean up & detailing. I never had a full dress pic after the rebuild till it was back in.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...81bbba58a6.jpg

Conaski sez the alphabet cams do not play nice with speed density computers.

He might step in and recommend something that would work with your trans & gear ratio, or you could give a mfg's tech line a shot.

Supposedly the B303 was designed for the SD EFI systems. But I've run them with a carb and they have a nasty lope at idle. Sounds good though }>

If you want a smoother idle, look for a cam with a wider LSA. I believe something in the 112-114 range would work for you.

It's not bad. Gives up a bit over stock from off idle to 1500 which is where it's advertised to come on.

It rumbles around my small town with ease & rarely sees 2k till I hit the highway

It idles before & after mass-air conversion at 750 & has a noticeable 3 second lope. You can literally count it off, but you have to pay attention to really notice.

It runs very hard up till fuel & tune cuts off before what I've learned here is about 5200 though I've never let it run long enough to get there.

It pegs the speedometer easily & WOT on ramps & passing are a blast.

I would suspect with your lighter truck & less hp eating transmission you might could do with more. Or less, but I don't know.

Conaski says my 512 is only slightly more aggressive than my stock 5.8 cam. (which I could give you maybe. New set of lifters & you'd be golden)

But in my warped filing system, I can't locate the actual numbers right now.

Main bearing
 

First pic crank snout side & second trans side or vice/versa?

Hard to say either way. Doesn't look too excessive.

I'd ask your machine shop & maybe see if a trans shop would look at the torque converter for swelling/distortion.

Probably normal for 200K, compare the wear to the other mains. If they're not in the copper, then you've got excess pressure in the converter. I went through one roller 5.0 that ate all the way through the thrust and had started rubbing the saddles with the counterweights.

OK I didn't see the notations. Looks like the chamfer on the trans side has some excessive thrust wear, but not totally eaten up.

200k seems good.

I think it's a dowel hole for when the block was machined at the factory.

The 1.7:1 rocker ratio gives you about 6% more valve lift across the full range of valve lift. Depending on the rest of the intake, it can net some small power gains.

For stock engines, the change is small enough that the stock computer should not have any problems. Its effects are greater if you have enhanced other parts of your intake.

I've been running a set in my 87 GT (SD computer) for a few years, and I've had no problems. The engine has a larger throttle body and 1.5" aftermarket headers, but is otherwise stock. I will say that I noticed a drop in power when I switched back to the stock throttle body. I don't drag in the streets, but there is an on-ramp I'm very familiar with, and it's definitely taking me longer to get up to speed with the smaller TB. So my feeling is the 1.7:1 rockers by themselves have very small effects on power.

Ford found a 15 hp increase when they used the full roller 1.7's on the Cobra 5.0. Some came from the friction reduction in the switch to the roller trunnion, some from the increased valve lift (.030 at the valve) and the stiffer rockers (no deflection). They also lowered the oil temperatures. I've used a set now on 5 different engines (same set) that had over 100K miles on them. They seem to last forever.

I would use Comp's springs instead of Trick Flows. Also a plain jane Cloyes True Roller timing set for a late model roller 5.0 will save you money I'd bet. That's what I put in my 331 14 years ago ($25 at O'Reillys) still on the job too.

That's not a bad price then. I recommended the springs because the rates may be different. Just make sure they're close in specs if you're going to go with them.

Have the rods resized on the big end when replacing bolts. On the crank journals, inspect for any nicks, other damage, hot spots, etc. If they look good just mic. them in a few spots to make sure they are round and within specs.