The battery ground cable must run from the NEG post of the Battery to the Engine Block, NOT the Frame.

You can have a center lug in the ground cable bolted to the frame but this only used if you are pulling a trailer.

You must also have a good ground to the cab body (not the frame) from the NEG post of the battery.

BODY GROUND:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...Bodyground.jpg

Engine Ground but do not use a red cable for ground:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...gineGround.jpg

G100:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...ounds/G100.jpg

G200:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...s/1995G200.jpg

G201:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...ounds/G201.jpg


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When I ran the extra ground cable I did not disconnect any of the stock ground cables. I need to check those body grounding locations, they may not be existing anymore.

Its official my truck SUCKS!

Shhh!! She'll hear you and then you'll really be in trouble!!!

New ground cable (block to neg battery post), new belt tensioner (not just the pulley), and a new belt. The entire bracket that the alt and smog pump bolt to was loose (ground issue). It is tight now.

The original battery finally stopped holding a charge. I would charge it over night. It would say 12.9 volts, then when I started the truck it would drop to 9 volts, then 8 then 7 then the truck died. I replaced it the batter with another used battery, but in very good shape.

I wired a ground from the alt to the battery. Now before I start the truck I had 12.31 volts it stays at that voltage during idle the 2 screws on the back show the same voltage. The gauge in the truck is almost past the "N" though. I turned on the ac and radio the voltage dropped to 12.05. Then I turned the truck off. The voltage was at 12.51???? What the hell is going on? If the altenator is working wont the voltage be 13 to 14 volts at the battery? Won't by batter gauge in the dash be around "R"? It is doing the same thing to 2 different alt (both used 1 tested at Autozone and passed). Should I just buy a new ALT?

The alternator will not charge if both screws have the same voltage on them.
With the same voltage on both screws there is no current flowing through the field windings of the alternator.
Check the voltage on the "A" wire, it should be the same as the battery voltage running or not.

Last time I checked the A bolt with the engine off the voltages were the same. It cannot be the ground at this point. New ALT needed?

Put a volt meter on the battery.
Start the engine.
Then ground the "F" screw.
The alternator should go wide open with this screw grounded so do not ground the "F" screw for more than a few seconds. Just long enough to see if the voltage goes up.
If the voltage goes up the alternator is OK and you have a bad voltage regulator or wiring to the alternator.

Ok. I just re-checked the a and f bolt 12.22 while running just like the battery while running.

I grounded the F screw and it the voltage on the battery jumped to 13.60! Now what?

What is the voltage on the "I" wire with the engine running and not charging ("F" screw not grounded)?
You did not change out the gauge cluster from another year to to get a tach in the truck did you?

Yes I did. The battery problem and battery light came on in the old instrument panel.

It will not charge until you fix the wiring in the cluster.
The 1992 & 1993 are the same.
The 1994 & 1995 are also the same.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...rgecluster.gif

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ok the I wire has 0 volts while running. How do I fix the cluster?

You need to move the pins from one plug to the other plug.
In other words you have to move the wires so your 94 plugs are wired like the 93 plugs.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...entCluster.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...entCluster.jpg

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