Hey, don't thank me. I have not done it. If I had a spare I might. I am not sensing the problem at present.

Just a little update. I received my resistors from DigiKey this week, and since I'm off today and it's raining......

The hardest part of this mod is getting the lid off the IDM. Takes about 15-20 strokes through the sealant with an exacto knife to get the sealant loose enough to get a tool pried under the lid. The layout of the module is exactly as pictured in the Forgotten link and it is a simple matter of desoldering the stock resistor and soldering in the 75, or 73.2k resistor. The whole deal took maybe 30-40 minutes start to finish.

Haven't op's checked it yet. Need to let the sealant cure for a day or two.....hopefully by then it will stop raining long enough for me to install it on my truck :)

Update #2

Pulled the fender liner and installed the IDM-140. Initial impressions are it starts much faster, I was not expecting this but it makes sense. And it revs like a gasser. Snap throttle engine acceleration is much quicker....doesn't even seem like a diesel it revs so quick.

Test drive coming in a few minutes, just have to get the fender liner tucked back in.

Update #3

They say this mod is worth about 20hp. I say it is worth at least that....probably more like 40. This is how I expected this truck to run when I put the injectors in it.

You guys running big sticks and stock IDM's....you're cheating yourselves. Do the mod.

Sometime in the next couple of weeks I'm going to modify my removed IDM and stick it in Dave's (1996pwrstrk) truck. We'll get some stock injector impressions of it then.

That's what I'm talking about Scott. :-jammin Wish I had moved on this before Smokin. Keep us posted. Yeah I'm bumping this because I believe it deserves it.

Scott, this may get more attention with a new thread. I like what I am hearing. Perhaps crank it up with a better title and then test Dave's rig.

Not a bad idea......May wait and let Dave handle that one. Want to make sure it's worth the effort for the stock injector guys too.

EDIT: I also tilted the title of this one to make it easier to identify/search.

very good info here..thanks guy's...cookie?? you got a IDM from a 95..that's a 110 right?? did you mod it for 140?? did it take a different resister as doing a 120 IDM to 140??

Wow......great thread! Cookie, I too would be interested in the impressions with stock injectors as I have no plans on changing mine. But for 20hp +/- this is cheap and looks easy. From the looks of the pics the points to solder are huge compared to installing a chip in a gaming console.....now that is micro soldering.....

Also, it was mentioned you could get similar results from a chip. I have a Superchips 100hp program on mine.....wouldn't this mod be added hp to the total?

E-series = IDM 110. 94-97 F-series = IDM 100. 99-03 F-series = IDM 120

To convert IDM 120 to 140 you need a 73.2k ohm resistor. .5w 1%.

Digi-Key - PPC73.2KXCT-ND (Vishay/BC Components - 5033ED73K20F12AF5)

If you come up with an old IDM 100 or 110, they both take a 75k.

Digi-Key - PPC75.0KXCT-ND (Vishay/BC Components - 5033ED75K00F12AF5)

Correct. This adds to the total of whatever you've already got in play.

Scott,

Let us know what it does to mpg.

Thanks

Thank You cookie......I'm eager to hear your results with stock injectors.

99-03 IDM removal instructions

On the fender liner there are 3 8mm mount bolts, one straight up, one front side, and one rear. Then 3 or 4 tiny little bolts, 7/32" fits, along the fender lip. After that three plastic push pins, one in the very front and two at the bottom rear below the outside edge of the fender line.

Once all the mout hardware is removed start at the rear and gently pry the liner around the fender well lip. Once it's started it pulls down pretty easily. There is no need to disconnect all the wire harness on the topside that attached to the liner. There is enough room for the liner to lay down on the tire with them connected.

When the liner is down, look inside the fender all the way to the rear. It's a 10mm bolt holding the IDM connector on, and two (2) 10mm bolts holding the IDM bracket in place. Once those two bolts are out, pull straight down to disengage the IDM/bracket from the fender.

There are three (3) 8mm bolts securing the IDM to the mount bracket. Once The IDM is off the bracket use whatever means are at your disposal to get the sealant off the lid and remove the lid of the IDM. After that, follow the pictures in the link in post #1 and solder in the appropriate resistor.

Reseal the lid and reinstall in reverse order of removal.

That's it.....done deal.

As soon as Scott is ready to mod the IDM he pulled from his truck and we get in mine I will start another thread and let yall know how she does.