Sorry for the bad pic, but this is the vacuum hose I was talking about (circled in yellow):

Attachment 216191

EDIT: Wait, how many coil packs do you have? In your first post you said "So i have a 2001 ranger 2.3l .runs very rough at idle.code says misfire in cyl.#1. I have changed plugs,wires,coil packs all motocraft.". I think the 2.5 4-cyl has two coil packs.

Your right im sorry 2.5 4cyl 2 coil packs

Ok cool. Yeah, you don't have to worry about IMRC like we do on these 2001.5-2003 2.3's so any vacuum source would be fine.

Well ...i hooked up the vacuum gauge and the needle flickers quickly at 18/19 .from what i read this is worn valve guides?the needle is never steady,jumps short quick jumps.

erich if you have a power brake booster, there should be a vacuum connection you can follow back to a 'tree' or manifold to get a good reading. You may have 'needle flutter' based on where you connect, and what is connected to the intake nearby. It is even possible the IAC is 'fluttering' as it is a pulse driven positioner that may be buzzing back and forth in repsonse to computer command.
I would want a vacuum source that is directly into the manifold, or one that is plumbed into the 'middle' more than near the valve or near the throttle plate.
Given the plan by Pawpaw for a timing light to #1, the gauge, and listening for misfire, did you find any vacuum pulse related to misfire that was in time with the plug?
I go to too many sites and read too many questions, so have lost the thread of this thread. I know it's a 2.5, and has misfire. All else has drained from my brain.
tom

Ok,if anyones still on this ride with me i took pawpaws advice.i hooked up timing light,vacuum gauge ,and listend to the injectors with a stethascope (loud) haha. So the vacuum gauge did the same thing hovered right around 18/19 in hg but fluttering the entire time.timing light was consistant as far as i could tell even switching between plug wires,negligible. Now while listening to the injectors ,the #1 injector seemed to have slight hesitation at times compared to how #2 sounded...now this could be me playing tricks on myself but im pretty sure it was a little off.and that is a new injector... so thats that,the fluttering of the vac. Gauge concerns me,but im not 100% on what to make of the results.this problem of very rough idle gets worse during deceleration ,then evens out to just a bad idle.
Thanks for bearing with me.

Did you have a listen on the intake & exhaust side of the head, around #1 cyl, to determine if a intake, or exhaust valve seems to be in time with the vacuum gauge flutter?
Does what your seeing on the vacuum gauge seem to match any scenario on the vacuum guge test link & put up?

If you are referring to the link you posted,part of it does not work.i looked up other sites .ral Ignition Troubles Or Sticking Valves*
With the engine idling, continued fluctuation of 1 to 2 inches may indicate an ignition problem. Check the spark plugs, spark plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high tension cables, distributor cap or ignition coil. Fluctuations of 3 to 4 inches may be sticking valves.

Mine does not fluctuate more than 1 or 2 "...so back to ignition problem?

I pulled the #1 plug wire with the motor running..it sparked everywhere ,but there was absolutely no difference in idle or anything with spark plug wire removed..uh oh
Edit:just thinking ..this 2.5l has the 8 plugs,would i have to remove both plugs from cyl #1 to see a drop in rpm?

VIDEO of vacuum gauge test:
https://youtu.be/hF0DwXWzU50

I still think it is a fuel problem,,,I ask again if you know when the fuel filter was last changed ???? I ask because of rough idle and dry #1 plug... and you should see voltage on the #1 injector plugin and I believe you said nada on meter in a earlier post on page 2 ( 8-5-2016 5 :06 pm ) if the injector are not receiving the proper voltage they will not spray,,,no spray means misfire rough idle and dry plug,,,but I could be wrong

Changed the filter last night..it was factory so much for preventive maintenance.
As far as checking voltage on the injector wiring i couldnt get any readings at all with KOEO.

hhhhmmmm that does not sound right,,,try it again with key off engine off and see if you get voltage to the #1 injector plugin,,,, no voltage means no spray and misfire,,,, oh and If you have a helper you can spin engine and watch test light blink or meter swing voltage,,, just to rule out the problem,,, cheap easy test !! one lead to battery and one lead to plugin ,,if nothing try other wire,,,one should be hot when engine spins

The link in post 18 is ok & all the test scenarios are functional for me. Which one of the scenarios best fits what your seeing on your vacuum gauge.

Ok i had to use my laptop for the site to work..it would be scenario #3 i know i do not have a high performance motor but it is the same needle shake but at 20.

Test light illuminated when grounded and probe in hot wire..switched to hot side of battery ,probe on the ground wire on the injector plug ,no light.

That's the way it's supposed to be. The injectors have B+ to them at KOEO, then when the computer gets a signal from the crank sensor that the engine is turning, it'll ground switch the fuel injector so it'll squirt. Longer or shorter ground switching times = more or less fuel as needed, as the O2 sensors tell the computer the exhaust is rich, or lean.