You're pretty close. I live on Orcas on the west side of Beacon Ave, so only a couple minutes away. Let me know.
-Mike

Thanks to the overwhelming generosity of mmoe and his budding mechanic son (who knows way! more than me), the brakes are bled to a point of drivability and I took the truck out for an around-the-neighborhood tonight and a trip to the gas station.

Mike, I can't thank you enough -- publicly! Folks on this forum are generous of their experience and time (and opinion!) and apparently the saintly ones will drive to your house to help you.

The rear drums/shoes/etc need to be replaced, but the truck stops now with its shiny new calipers on the front and new booster and master cylinder.

The brake light is shining brightly on the dash. Do I need to crawl under and crack the hex nuts on the end of the proportioning valve with a helper in the cab? Is there any other way? Are there other reasons why the brake light might stay lit all the time (it was off before this whole saga began).

No, you don't need to fiddle with the proportioning valve under the vehicle. The reason the brake warning light is on is because after bleeding the brake system, the pressure differential metering and proportioning valve are off center. It should only light up in the START position.

To re-center: Make sure the connection (top middle of the prop valve) is secure. With the key in the ON or ACC position, push on the brake pedal. This should center the valves and the light should go out.

If it stays on then there may be a shorted or broken brake warning light switch or grounded switch wires.

Glad you're back on the road!

Plug is nice and seated into the proportioning valve. Brake light does not come on when key is in ACC. Brake light is on when key is in ON and START.

Pushing the pedal with the key in either ACC or ON had no effect on the light.

Guess I can finally get back to my wiring gremlins :) -- rear side markers don't work. Reverse lights don't work. All other exterior lights seem to work a-ok.