Finally Started my Dana 60 SAS on the 250. Forgot the camera so no pics, sorry, take some tomorrow. I got the axle out of the truck after work and then started to mock up boxing in the frame rails for the reverse shackle kit I built.....

Set my Cb's up in the truck and washed the outside. Found out that my trans is clicking and i have no idea why or what it could be. Gonna do an oil change here shortly.

nothing, too hot out.

What is involved in replacing the control arms? And do you need any special tools???


Today got a new drop hitch on the 250.

which control arms?

Yes, they're made for mid 80's Broncos that you couldn't put a toolbox in the back for....and no, they don't fit exactly in anything after '86, but if you gotta good imagination and can fab some things up, you can put anything into darn near anything else....I just had to fab a new mount for the window washer fluid/coolant res and extend the pump wires for mine, and then build a mount for the box to the fender
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...awk285/TB1.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...awk285/tb2.jpg

upper and lower.
Thats all the info that i have other than its on a 150.

I am wanting to help someone, but i rarely do suspention work

braved the heat and the bugs to change the oil in my 4.9. 6 Qts havoline 10w30, motorcraft fl-1a. it is so nice to be able to change the oil without having to jack a vehicle up.

Found out my truck probably has a burnt valve if not multiple :(

Truck can idle poorly, but can't run under throttle and you hear air rushing every whicha way in the air box. If you pull vacuum, it's low. REAL low haha.

I've changed so much on this truck this week and it ran good for about 10 minutes and now I gotta basically yank the head...

readjusted the big offroad lights on top of the bumper. Realized my lower lights have caused the fuse to heat up and balloon and deform but not blow - go figure!

Nothing lately. It still has 2 week old mud on it from my last real outing. I am barely driving it now.

got the pedals and steering wheel back in

i had ball joints put in my rig at 172k miles. normally i do my own repair work but not that cheap. i used to go up to my old shop and put it on the rack. but all the racks were full. but for the money i let les schwab do it.

Pulled the tired old 302 out and pulled the roller parts out of it to put into the newish 302 from a 91 pickup. I bought the 91 302 motor with 5,000 on a rebuild, but was unsure if I could believe the guy or not. When I started pulling it apart to put a new oil pump in and pull the flat tappet cam I was happy to see that all the rods and caps were numbered and one of the pistons had 40 marked on it. I'm assuming the 40 means it was bored .040 over. Also the heads look like they were gone through pretty well.

I got the cam, lifters, and timing set on and started dropping in push rods when I noticed they were waaaaaay too long, so I had to stop until I can get the right ones. I did order the right ones, but the wrong push rods were in the package. They were supposed to be 6.250", but the ones in the package were just short of 8". Got ahold of Summit today and they are sending a new set today via next day air. I'm going to get those Scorpion rockers on there one of these days and get the darn thing buttoned up and back in my pickup.

Well it got better - that fuse for the lower bumper lights was deformed but I was able to switch it out, then when I went to check the fuse for the rear floods I found a royal mess - the darn thing was melted and fell apart on me when I went to yank it out, had to use needlenose plies to extract the remaining pieces. They were 25-amp fuses and they feed four 55W lights each, the current draw of these lights is 18 amps per fuse and so the fuses didn't blow, but I guess the heat generated by the current flowing through the fuse holders was enough to heat up the fuses and since they are covered with rubber caps against moisture the heat kept building up and building up till the fuses started deforming and eventually melting down. Running two 30-amp fuses now, hopefully they will heat up less and the issue will not present itself again.

On a different note, I did confirm the voltage back feed to the BOO switch when the 4-ways are on, which it its turn triggers my torque converter unlock relay every time the 4-ways blik, and if there was a trailer behind the truck the brake controller for that would pulse the brakes too. Tomorrow the BOO switch output wire is getting a diode installed to stop the voltage back feed but still allow proper brake lights operation.

And finally I bolted the slide-in to the bed floor real good - 22 bolts altogether, 6 in each front corner and 5 in each rear corner, 5/16"x3" in size, screwed into the camper subrfame (added on top of the original framework) built with 2"x4" treated wood - yeah, I think she'll stay put, actually she stays fairly put already cause of the frame tie-downs but what I really hope to achieve with these new bolts is stop the annoying sqeeking made by the slide-in moving ever so slightly cause of the uneven bed floor (old farm truck, used and abused bed). Still gotta actually test that tho...