Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php)

- 1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum40/)

- - 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1578338-1966-f100-short-bed-styleside-metal-body-paint-work.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by stonewalljac (Post 21085725)

As you have done many times, It seems one would have to make new metal and cover the existing metal to close it up in places. Then the other issue becomes the thickness of the doors and the way the door hinge swings requires a large hole to allow it to open without dragging somewhere LOL It never ends on these. I am so blown away with your truck. It will be something that Henry Ford NEVER made one like. But in his defense He made it for $1,800.00 out the door.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KO1960 (Post 21085901)

Chasing the panel warpage with while tack welding must take some time. My experience as a pipe fitter is once the pipe and fitting are tacked in four places, then the joint can be fully welded with little distortion. I imagine that because of the thin material, you have to be very diligent about the shape. It's impressive how you are able to find solutions to the fitment problems. Keep the updates coming.

Yes, every weld causes shrinking, and on a panel with crown in both directions it will pull the crown out locally, leaving a low spot. If I had welded it all the way across without planishing there would be severe distortion along/around the weld seam and a huge low spot across the whole door bottom. Doing 3-4 spots at a time then planishing after each round of welds makes it easier to control the overall shape of the panel and maintain the correct amount of crown in the panel. The c-channel is a very good way to make sure the panel has a consistent arc front to back so you can see if your welds are still shrunken or if you planished/stretched too much with the hammer/dolly. Its time consuming to do it this way but it saves time compared to trying to do all the welding first, then working the distortion out later. I've been practicing oxy/acetylene welding which is a much softer weld so its easier to work out shrinkage, but I'm not good enough yet to try it on a panel like the door bottom.

Quote:

Originally Posted by theastronaut (Post 21086874)

My issue would be that the window frame would no longer be parallel between the inner edge nearest the window and outer edge against the cab opening, and that would look just as bad as an uneven gap. If you modified the a-pillar it would cause the same issue.

Yes, every weld causes shrinking, and on a panel with crown in both directions it will pull the crown out locally, leaving a low spot. If I had welded it all the way across without planishing there would be severe distortion along/around the weld seam and a huge low spot across the whole door bottom. Doing 3-4 spots at a time then planishing after each round of welds makes it easier to control the overall shape of the panel and maintain the correct amount of crown in the panel. The c-channel is a very good way to make sure the panel has a consistent arc front to back so you can see if your welds are still shrunken or if you planished/stretched too much with the hammer/dolly. Its time consuming to do it this way but it saves time compared to trying to do all the welding first, then working the distortion out later. I've been practicing oxy/acetylene welding which is a much softer weld so its easier to work out shrinkage, but I'm not good enough yet to try it on a panel like the door bottom.

I worked at a Cadilliac Dealer back in the 70's. and when they did a quarter or even a roof panel. they used Oxy/acetylene and brazed them on long seams. I was never good enough to run a long seam.