Farmtruck1, what's the gear ratio in your truck right now? And are the tires stock too?

The 300 big I6 engine is a good work engine, has torque down low in the RPM range, thats what gets the job done. My 84 F250 4x4 has the 300/np435 with 3.55 gears and that thing will pull and pull and pull....(hence the name of Blue Mule) may not be the fastest but gets the job done. Since I got the 89 F250, the 302/aod(orginal engine was 351/e4od and was blown) I am not liking how it pulls a load. Few weeks ago I took in around 3000lbs of junk to the scrap yard. The 302 just labored, unless I shifted the AOD manualy(not good on it and no OD at all!) to keep the RPMS up high. I do heavy load hauling sometimes and the 300 I6 will out preform the 302 V8, now empty rev that 302 up and the truck will scoot out!

I tend to agree with that statement. According to my '89 Light-Duty (F-350 and down) Spec Book, a semi-float 10¼" Sterling is rated for 5300# max, where the full-floater is rated for 6250#. I suppose the extra thousand pounds might come in handy for some, but when you consider that the static weight on the rear axle on a 250 might be around 2500# (that's a WAG...someone feel free to correct me), you can still put a pretty good bit of weight in the bed before you're overloading the LD axle.

For reference, the book lists the max weight rating for an 8.8" axle at only 3750#!:-hair

Pat

I'm not sure what the gears are. I'll let you know asap. Also not sure what the trans is either. I'm really hoping it's a zf 5spd and not the mazda.

When i test drove the truck, i could tell it was relatively underpowered until it got to about 2500+ rpm. I am ok with this because it has the 5 spd. But i knew right away that first gear was not low enough. I figured i'd just swap in some 4.10's because there are hundreds of real F250s around for parts. Now that i know it's not a real F250, i'm kind of nervous about finding parts and the strength of the trans/t-case.

One of the selling points of the truck is that it just had the trans and 302 rebuilt. But if it's the mazda trans, then it's a wash.

Oh well. We'll see how it does. If i kill it, then i know i need to start looking for a 1 ton!

Hey guys, I had a similar question when i bought my 86 f250, It was a diesel. Just so ya'll know from what i found out anyway. The 250 and 350 HD share the same frame, however the 250 LD is similar but less thick, you could get almost any combo of engine/axle/frame options, but ageneral rule of thumb is the diesels are HD frame (same as a 350), gassers could be ordered with either the LD or HD (I think it depends on GVWR) and the HD frame could come with the 44 or 50 TTB. Not to say a LD frame with good running gear cant tow or haul but they are different. It might sound kind of confusing but somebody correct me if I'm wrong

I have learned my lesson on wikipedia... On there chuck norris is ten foot tall.... I have found way to much stuff that people change to something totally false on there.

See, what engine you have does not nessiarily mean anything.. Torque multiplycation, trq mult., trq multi!, if you were able to get traction you could technically pull a rail road car with a four cylinder engine and some low low low gearing! Its all posible with torque multiplycation. Now lets say that your transmission first gear ratio was 5.72, your rear end gearing was 3.55, and you had the transfer case in high range(1:1). This gives you a crawling ratio of 20... Not bad. Your moving a Large hay wagon out in the field that has round bales on it... We all know it will pull better in a lower gear, so you put it in first and engauge the transfer case in low range. Lets say this is a 2.1 to 1 ratio, now its a crawl ratio of 43. ALOT better. Every little bit helps, lower gears make a world of difference. This is how farm equipment can rip down a house and this is how you do it.
The website below is for you guys to check out. Its great. Figure out the crawl ratio's for your truck. Automatics first gear ratio need to be multiplied by 1.5 or 2 because a torque convertor multiplys torque.
Novak Conversions - Gearing & Gearing Math for Jeeps

He didnt keep it all that long, he bought it for 600 bucks with what seemed like was a non existent rear main seal. you couldnt keep oil in it to save your life. He fixed that and drove it for probably about 6 months. It would probably last quite awhile. He had to do axle bearings on the rear axle, and the axle didnt win any popularity contest with me.

A full floater is the way to go IMO. I had to do axle bearings (wheel) on my 8.8 in my F150. I used it like a 3/4 ton often, later I blew the rear end out of it, I know the 10.25 is a stronger axle, but I still see no reason to have a semi-floater in a 3/4 or 1 ton. Heck, i have a full floater in my F150. lol

Besides, if you are going to change the gearing anyway, you could find a FF 4.10 rear axle for probably less then what it would cost for new gears and set up for your semi floater

Thanks for the info everyone. I will hopefully be picking up the truck this afternoon. Then I can figure out some of these questions. (It's getting a rear main seal put in). Here are the list of items that i plan on doing to it in the next few months:
- New Brakes (possibly lines too)
- New Accelerator Cable
- Front End Work (lots of play in steering wheel)
- Lower Gears (possibly alxes)
- Gooseneck Hitch

So, needless to say, i'll be on here a bunch in the future seeking more advice!

Oh, i'll post the trans/t-case/axle & gear info from the truck ASAP. Maybe it will be useful to someone like me thinking they're getting a true 3/4 ton truck.

Thanks again! :-X22

I have a 94 f250 hd with a 351, e4od, and 3.55:1 gears and it pulls fine. The only trouble I have had is hitting steep grades loaded (john deere 450 dozer and 16 ft trailer, about 18k) it pulls the motor down a good bit and sometimes will drop to second if it hits 45 or so. But small grades and flat land she will cruise easy at 65. I have been wanting lower gear since I got it but I don't feel like tearing into the mess in the front end.

What you have is a light duty of course. It probably has a mazda tranny in it as evidenced by the fact the gearing is to high already (ZF has very low 1st gear).

Not a bad truck, it will haul loads but the 302 will murder you with its lack of power. I never liked them in a truck, just not enough balls. Best thing to do is to seek a 351 swap or start doing headers, intake, exhaust, and throw the right gears in it (4.10s would be best).

For everyones info, in my research I have found: The HD F250 had a GVWR of 8600 (reg cab) and 8800 (x-cab), it uses the same frame as the F350, uses the sterling full floater rear and either the d44 or d50 (seems no rhyme or reasons to it either). It usually came with 3.55 or 4.10 gears, if it came with a stick its the ZF otherwise its an E4OD, you will notice right away when you see one as it sits MUCH higher than a lighter duty 250 and 150. The LD may also use smaller brakes/rotors as well. When you go the parts counter they will ask GVWR.

I have the 10.25 sterling semi-floating axle with 500K miles on it, change the lube every few years and its been reliable as can be. I have had 4 leaves added to the rear spring pack and have seen the truck leave the scales at 11,800 pounds. Also tow a GN deckover trailer with tongue loads up to 4000# The semi-floating axle is mighty tuff. I pull the axles every second or third oil change, lube and service the brakes, check for axle/pinion/bearing wear and put it all back together. I also have the I-6 and ZF trans, its a solid work truck still and doesn't bitch hauling a 2 yd salt/sand spreader.


Dana 44/50 axle usually follows HD gets the 50 as well as a LD with the 'plow package option'

Maybe there are different types of the light duty models but my friend has a 89 light duty 250 4x4 with the 300/5spd. His truck has the semi floating rear, the smaller gvwr and less leaf springs but sits at the same height as my 93 250 HD 4x4. Maybe it's cause I'm not all that mechanically inclined but I would drive it as is or sell it for a profit and buy the truck you really want, an F350 etc. Sounds like a whole lot of time/work, swapping motors, trannies, gears, axles etc just to get an HD vs a LD. Unless of course you like doing it!

Ive seen it every way under the sun, plow (or whatever) package or not some got the 44 and some got the 50. Like I said, no rhyme or reason to it-I think ford just tossed in whatever was handy.

Well, it was part of the 'HD front suspension package' included with camper and snowfighter and available as a toss in option pacakge, now another point, the LD tire size was 215/85-16(D) with 6800 lb gvw. and the 5300(r)/3850(f) gives 9150 pounds and adding the heavy axle takes the combined axle weight to 9900 pounds on a truck that weighs about 5500 pounds empty. I think that with the heavier axle, you also move from load range D to load range E 235/85-16 tires.

I'm also trying to recall back, the HD axle wasn't much cost and I bet if you wanted the bigger tires, they tossed in the HD axle and upgraded the tires.

Instead of a "LD 3/4", think of it as a "HD 1/2"!!! I realize it was not what you wanted for your application, but it actually makes for a nice package that bridges the gap between a 1/2 ton and a traditional 3/4 ton. At least you don't have the odd-ball 7 lug wheels of the '97+ F250HD.