Thanks! It sounds like there's really no downside to it as long as the actual wiring is within my ability. I feel like with proper instructions, I could handle it. But I wouldn't want to tackle something like that without knowing exactly how to do it.

I have no plans to put HID's in my truck, but I would definitely like to improve the brightness of the lights when I replace my housings.

If you don't want HIDs I would look into leds with clear lens like Dixie460 on here did.


I would bet if you google headlight harness for these trucks you will find something. I personally haven't looked it up yet because I haven't gotten to that stage with the trucks I plan to do them too.
Trav

Got bumper done. Thread here

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...psfacdb5d0.jpg

the biggest reason to do the headlight relay is to keep the current that runs the headlights from going through the switch and then melting it. it also has less resistance and in turn make the headlights brighter

Replaced my 4x4 shift linkage today. Undercoated and greased the crap out of the new one. Hardest part was removing the shift lever from the old linkage.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...f168106eea.jpg


Hardest part


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...36bf7b5c4b.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...fbaa40e907.jpg


Shift level painted with red primer... its a ford maybe I should have picked blue?

If you're like me and too lazy to make your own kit, you can buy a ready-made one off of Amazon ( ). That's what I used for my truck, it comes with everything you need. Pair it with some new housings and bulbs, and you'll be able to light up the world :D

One major benefit of the relays (besides the brighter lights) is that it takes the electrical strain off your headlight switch. From what I've heard at least, the headlights get their power from the switch in the dash, and that switch is supposedly failure-prone. The relays will power your headlights directly from the battery instead of via the switch, so the switch shouldn't burn out. Plus, if one or both of the relays die, it takes less than 5 minutes to plug the stock wiring back in and you're back on the road. It's a nice little backup system.

If you're thinking about upgrading your housings and bulbs too, I have some before and after pictures you can check out here. I did the upgrade last month, it was worth every penny.

Changed out the thermostat, gasket and temperature sensor today. Added three accessory sockets that are powered on with the ignition on. And washed it after getting stuck on a red clay road. Oh! Enjoying this warm January weather.

Replaced the solenoid on the 90 F150 after it left dad in a parking lot broken down. Brand new solenoid and a rescheduled doctors appointment and he was good to go oh and help from the neighbor since he forgot the tools here.




Hopefully this will fix the slow start in the cold.
Trav

Last night I changed out the crusty old battery terminals with brand new ones. Couldn't even adjust the tightness on the old ones. It's a wonder the truck even was able to start!

Brighter lights, less strain on the factory wiring & headlight switch and with the 12ga wiring I used I can run brighter bulbs or HIDs if I wanted. The difference between stock wiring and the new wiring is night and day with foggy headlight housings. Definitely worth the effort

This is the guide I used to put my harness together:
Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

It wasn't too difficult to put together, I had mine done in a couple of hours, hardest part was soldering the heavy gauge wires together but nothing out of reach if you're confident with your soldering skills.


Good looking truck

I decided to make a heat shield as I never liked the foil-backed insulation that came stock. I made it out of aluminum, 40ga, custom cut and shaped it. Had a friend do some welding on it to make it sturdy, ground down the welds, did some hammering, added some filler (just near the edges with welds), etched, and painted with high temp paint. First time for me working with metal like this, especially a soft metal, so I found out that light hammering made small dents. For me, best thing was a power or planishing hammer or I could have used an english wheel. Both too expensive for me to buy for one time use, so I made something using caster wheels, came out pretty good.

234,800 miles
 

today I took the truck into the shop.

Got the following accomplished:

-Machined Front Rotors
-Machined Rear Drums
-Replaced PS Wheel Cylinder
-Changed and bled the brake fluid

Truck stops like a dream now.

I finally got new wheels and tires on the old girl! I went with some 16x10 steel soft 8 wheels with 4 inches of backspacing and for tires I went with some 285-75-16 kenda klever Mts! Keep in mind this is one a 2 inch leveled 1995 f150 4x4

I have the links the the parts i used

Wheels
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/brw-997615540

Center caps
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/pcw-102
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/pcw-104

http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/...psr2vbeuf2.jpg

http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/...psgsvfkwjc.jpg

http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8i2dkcod.png

http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0xch7s9c.jpg

http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/...pso52eadfm.jpg

http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/...pshzngxsi1.jpg

I love the new wheels and tires!

While troubleshooting a problem with my dome light I found some burned/melted up wiring under the driver's side rock trim plate. A trip to the junkyard for a chunk of harness and a couple hours of soldering has everything working properly now.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4a0704d1fb.jpg

Looks good. Those fill up the wheel wells.