Took it for a drive on the freeway and checked my MPG. My ODO is 14% off now with the 37s. I drove 10% slower on the speedo. I actually saw a jump from 17 hwy to 20 hwy and I even overfilled on the last fill to rule out a possible overfill on the first fill. (Even though I let it shut off normally. I wanted to err on the worst side for my calcs.)

I joined the 200k mile club today with it.

i unhooked my travel trailer from it and took the snow plow off as hopefully i wont be needing it anymore!

i have some stuff on my list i need to fix/correct this summer before next plowing season, all small nitpicky stuff

Did some dealer mods.

Put a 95-97 "pull/pull" heater blend climate control switch in to replace the old push/pull cable. Now its a nice rotary dial. Cost all of $6 at the JY

Also changed out the air function selector switch to the 95-97 switch for the improved "vacuum logic" as Ford literature calls it.

Picked up a MINT driver's side bottom seat cushion. Still need to put that in. Also have a NOS under dash wiring harness I need to put in. This one has RKE so I went in for it. But alas, I noticed that along with the regular broken passenger side dash mount, the bottom two middle mounts are cracked off also. So the wiring harness can wait till I find a decent dash backing piece that isn't trash.

Don't see an improvement to te way the air blows, supposedly it was a fix if the winshield fogs up while A/C is on. But the new rotary dial is nice. No more stuck blend door.

Can you tell me more about what you did here? Is it just the heating control panel on the dash you replaced or did you also need to do any replacement/modification to things under the dash? Did you need to replace the entire cable to the blend door? Same thing about the function selector.

Here is all the parts you will need:

1. Function selector switch from late 95' to 97 (just the switch, the vacuum lines hook up the same).

2. Pull/Pull style rotary heater blend cable. You'll know its the upgraded part because it has two separate runs of cable going to the blend door (actually one long cable wrapping around a wheel).

3. The control plate from the donor truck. The newer Function switch had two little tabs sticking out, the 92-94 doesn't, so if you don't grab that little panel or shave the tabs off, it won't attach to the control panel (I opted for not hacking anything).

4. Heater core cover from the donor truck. The Ford literature calls for hacking up the original, I just replaced with one that came from the factory with the upgrades already done during manufacturing. Made it nuch easier.

Tools to take with you:

7mm socket, 8mm socket, 8mm combo wrench (for just one Bolt behind bottom of dash), 1/4" socket to remove selector switch and heater cable, and 10mm socket from sheet metal nuts holding on vacuum block to the selector switch.

You'll have to take off the glove box, and the heater core cover for best access to remove the cable from donor truck and your own, the bolt that holds the cabke assembly to blend door is also 8mm.

Have at it!

I hit the scales while doing a scrap run. After the cab swap and bigger tires I only gained 100lbs, sitting at 5900 with one full tank of fuel.

I don't know how everyone always comes up with such high weight numbers for their trucks. I think they need to clean them out or something.

My dad's 89 F250 4x4 reg cab long bed with a flat bed stick shift 351W is right at 6800lbs with 3 guys and 1/2 tank of gas and nothing in the bed minus the spare tires.
Trav

I've got mine down to 4800 lbs. The gas tank wasn't full but wasn't empty either, I just don't remember at what level it was at.

Wow your guys trucks weigh pretty little.
All the side stakes on our bed weigh close to 200 lbs with all put on. (solid steel 2x2 tubing about the height of a regular bed with aluminum diamond plate.) Ya the bed is a bit over built. The diamond plate on it is 1/4" thick. LOL
Trav

With a recent rebuild I have also done a lot to remove weight. I have completely removed the A/C, smog pump, extra wiring, replaced old iron heads...etc. I don't think I was too far above 5000 lbs but I don't remember weighing it before the rebuild. There is a rock and sand place near my house and when I buy something that requires them to weigh my truck, I ask what the empty weight is. I'd guess that scale is fairly accurate. They just need to know the difference in weight, probably don't care if it is at 50lbs when nothing is on the scale.

I wish my truck was at 5000lbs. I'm in the 7k range. But we're talking a one ton crew with a long bed.

A/c on ours is gone but the rest is still their. I am going to be adding A/c on to it again one day but not right now. I also have steel wheels on it.
I don't care much on the weight of it. I built it to be a work truck and it is doing a great job at that. One day I will build it back up keeping the flatbed but not right now.
Trav

I put a new windshield wiper motor on my truck last night after driving through some heavy rain with my old wiper motor running slow. Took about an hour to put in and what a difference.

The old wiper motor would would pretty much fine other than on the high setting. Then it would work for about a minute and start to lock up. The new motor is all around faster. Pretty happy to have gotten that done after dealing with sketchy wipers for a while.

I did an oil change and switched to the bigger Powerstroke filter after discovering Walmart's books don't even have IDI listed and there were none on the shelf.