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Originally Posted by Crazy001
(Post 13036567)
I thought about that, but I drive about 2,000 miles per month, and the fuel economy difference would destroy most of the savings of not having the payment. Rough estimate is that i'd burn another $318/month in gas which would effectively negate losing a $350/month payment!
now that i consolidated i should start racking more miles up on the excursion and expy. sold my ranger and explorer so i'm down to 3 trucks...this is going to be hard for me not to buy something else...trying to do the responsible thing and stay debt free! btw, my new taillights are in town. but UPS doesn't deliver on weekends...damn! |
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Tackled the rust on the underside using phosphoric acid and a pump sprayer. Did one pass today and got most of it-- turned black already. I still have almost half a gallon left so I'll hit it again tomorrow and let it dry before I use some Fluid Film as an undercoat.
Spent $25 at Home Depot on this: Attachment 293325 and this: Attachment 293326 |
Originally Posted by HeathJohnson
(Post 13036545)
Checked and they're all tight and connected, however I would love to find a method to maybe OHM test them to see if one is bad possibly.
It just hesitates really bad. Also seems to flood (best description I can think of) when starting up sometimes. Mine was the same. Ran good at idle, and even high rev in park. As soon as I tried driving it it hesitated and was real sluggish. Drove me crazy cuz I thought maybe the trans slipping. Mileage went way down also. I ran the AE on it several times and came up with nothing. I googled "how to test your coil on plug for failure" and recall several different testing methods. They all seemed like a long process to me. I had a tax return coming so I ordered all 10 COP and replaced them. Fixed the problem. All 10 old ones looked fine, no cracks, and boots I replaced 3 yrs ago and they were all still good. All cylinder plug holes clean and dry. You old order 1 and replace one at a time till you get the one. You could also try unplugging one at a time to see which one doesn't make a difference and catch it that way. Try starting at the back 4, as they seem to be the ones that go first. |
Originally Posted by hav24wheel
(Post 13036480)
Changed oil, changed antifreeze, and added a external trans filter.
Here you can see where I pulled the rubber line off that goes the trans cooler in front of the rad. Used a rubber hose and ran that to the feed side of the filter. Than stuck the hose I pulled off the steel line onto the out port on the filter housing. So, now the trans fluid comes out of the trans, into the radiator "cooler", into the filter, out to the external cooler in front of the radiator, than back to the trans. How do you get to that hose between trans cooler and radiator ? I don't think I've seen that, but didn't really look for it. Cool set up. Where did you get the filter ? and how often does it need changing and is there any restrictions ? |
Originally Posted by az_r2d1
(Post 13036870)
What coolant did you use ?
How do you get to that hose between trans cooler and radiator ? I don't think I've seen that, but didn't really look for it. Cool set up. Where did you get the filter ? and how often does it need changing and is there any restrictions ? The hose was just behind the radiator. Easy access. Got the filter, and mount from Summit racing, B&M makes it. Ill change it every other oil change. No restrictions that I can see. |
ya i drill holes and got steel carbide studs, i wouldnt mess with that cheap aluminum or rubber studd junk. my wife has never needed 4x4 in the winter in alaska with the studds i put in on the excursion. you can buy different lengths according to tire wear, i ususally get them a little longer then the law allows.. ;) also buy them in packages of 1000 thats only about 250 a tire.
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Tires and Decals
Well, not today, but within the last month.
New tires. I replaced the stock 265/75-16 Firestones with new 315/75-16 BFG All Terain T/As. I love em. About 3 inches larger in diameter, and 2 inches wider. They do rub the back of the front fenderwell when I have the steering at full lock. They don't rub anywhere else. I plan to attach something to the factory steering bump stop to fix the rubbing. Added some decals to declare that it has the mighty 7.3 Turbo Diesel. I ordered some "hood" decals off ebay, but when they showed up I noticed they would fit perfectly under the EXCURSION badges on the front fenders. I also got some smaller emblems and put one on the back under the oval, and the other on the grill, in the lower left-hand corner. Pics in the album of all, except the front emblem. Tomorrow it gets new front axle shaft U-joints. |
Bought all 4 new balljoints from someone locally who either sold or junked his truck before changing them (forget his story) 2 new axle shaft u joints, sway bar bushings knuckles seals, dust seals & o rings. Getting a hub zerk adapter made by the machine shop next to the welding school i went to.
Also picked up a 2002(?) F250 grille (the one with the 3 bars). Anyone know a easy way to check for springs codes? Some guy is selling dirt cheap springs here but all he knows is what vehicle they're coming off of... edit: the BJ's are Mevotech. |
The codes on the door tag.
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Is it clearly marked "c" or "x" or whatever? This guy doesn't seem like the sharpest tool and I don't want to drive an hour just to check.
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Springs
Springs codes are listed as a two-part code. The first character listed is for the front springs. The second code listed is for the rear springs. Auxiliary rear springs may also be listed. Front Springs — F-Series Base part number — 5310 (RH/LH) Pre-fix — F81A B — Suffix BA C — Suffix CA D — Suffix DA E — Suffix EA F — Suffix FA G — Suffix GA H — Suffix HA I — Suffix RA J — Suffix SA K — Suffix TA L — Suffix UA Pre-fix — 1C34 S — Suffix AAA T — Suffix ABA U — Suffix ACA V — Suffix ADA W — Suffix AEA X — Suffix AFA Front Springs — Excursion Base part number — 5310 (RH/LH) Pre-fix — YC35 G — Suffix G H — Suffix H S — Suffix S Pre-fix — 1C34 AG AH AJ Rear Springs — F-Series L — Rear air suspension B — 1C34-5560-CB, F-250, F-350 C — 1C35-5560-DB, F-250, F-350 D — YC35-5560-EA, F-250, F-350 M — YC35-5A975-AA, F-450, F-550 N — YC35-5A975-BA, F-450, F-550 Auxiliary Springs — F-Series A — YC35-5588-A (wide frame) D — F81A-5588-D (narrow frame) Rear Springs — Excursion Base part number — 5560 (RH/LH) Pre-fix — YC35 A — Suffix A Pre-fix — 1C34 B — Suffix B Im not really sure how to go by that, but i know X codes are the 6000lb springs and V codes are the 5200lb springs. That is for the front of a super duty. not sure what the back are |
Ok help me out here.....someone asked me to get a picture of the clearance of the banks tailpipe to the rear shock. I have those pictures but for the life of me I can't find who it was who asked me about that issue? It's someone with an Ex who installed the same exhaust in the last few months so I know he has to be subscribed to this thread.
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Hell, just post up the pics here, and maybe he see them. ;)
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Originally Posted by sammie0126
(Post 13038077)
Ok help me out here.....someone asked me to get a picture of the clearance of the banks tailpipe to the rear shock. I have those pictures but for the life of me I can't find who it was who asked me about that issue? It's someone with an Ex who installed the same exhaust in the last few months so I know he has to be subscribed to this thread.
Thanks for remembering. |
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Originally Posted by az_r2d1
(Post 13038171)
that was me. I bought the truck with the banks system installed already. Exhaust is very close to rear shock and I think it might hit it once in a while when there is axle movement.
Thanks for remembering. |
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