I can’t find any vacuum leaks checked with propane.

I checked the IAC it tested good (11 ohms)I checked the elect at the sensor plug and no power(12v)? I think that comes from the computer

i have 2code readers and I can’t get any codes or functions (it has a blinking square when working)from the computer they both give 1 click sound from the engine but not sure wear

When you pull codes, are you in neutral or have the clutch pushed all the way in? Wont display codes with engine on otherwise...

in park AOD koeo test doesn’t pull memory codes

You're doing good getting at pulling the codes, I think after checking for leaks it's the logical move.

I recommend tracing the wires in the scan port back to the computer, verifying correct pin location, and also remove the connector from the ECU, I've had problems hard to diagnose from the pins not seating all the way and not contacting the ECU. When I did my maf conversion I had to move a wire in the test port also.

I know it's frustrating but stick with it, we're here to help, and feel like we're all invested now!

I really do think that FTE has the best people anywhere

Yes I probably need to look at elect I did about 10%.
I was going to check the distributor harness next.

I saw how Chuck did it I can’t believe anyone could do wire delete better.

I need to to check the connection on pcm and the pins

I never use the end gaskets that come in the the intake gasket sets. I always run a nice thick bead of RTV on the end block walls instead. Let it start to set up and then set the intake in place. Since doing that I've never had them leak there.

yes a friend of mine told me the same thing when I took it apart the wall was sealed with RTV

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...dea4b7f8f.jpeg
Was this the vacuum leak?
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...20ca1e930.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0e25103b9.jpeg

Personally, I doubt it. I speculate it's residual oil/moisture/vapor from the PCV system, if the marks ran to the edge of the gasket, I'd think otherwise.

How'd your ecu harness and pins look?

not there yet going sloooow
and no oil on the outside of the lower at that area

Is the PCV one way valve?

The PCV is directional but never had one that was 100% seal doing a vac/blow test.

The fat end is engine side, the nipple end is to the manifold vac T/tree.

Haven't seen a new gasket there wet like that so soon.

That is about 2 hours of running on my the oil up on the manifold but no smoke out the tail pipe

Yes the PCV goes both ways do I need filtered air going in some place

You ideally would have filtered air entering on the opposite valve cover from the PCV valve. You absolutely must have a way for air to be drawn into and through the engine.

A PCV valve does not flow both ways. It is designed to modulate flow depending on amount of vacuum applied from manifold. In the event of positive pressure in the manifold (backfire), it acts as a check valve to prevent pressurizing the crankcase.

Thank you I’ll have to ad something

Number one valves are closed
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...567332cd1.jpeg

Put the manifold back in using permatex 82180 sealant I will let it sit for 24 hours before I put in fluids.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6888d5dbd.jpeg

Try this again

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...06fd46331.jpeg

I’m back after a rest from the engine, went to Maui that was nice but the truck is still there

5.0 engine has me beating my head can’t make much vacuum without 20° of advance I can’t find any leaks in the manifold area (used propane) valve timing is correct
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...ca9ba7a5b.jpeg

I tried code readers and I get nothing it makes some clicks but no curser on the reader screen and nothing down loads.
PCM? This engine was in a 89 E250 before could the PO have made adjustments to remove engine light or old age

Maui... wow. Glad you didn't get eaten. :rolleyes:

The lack of a light shouldn't make a difference.

The clicks & noise you hear in a stock situation is the computer doing self tests of under hood items which you may or may not have now.

I'm not familiar with this exact diagnostic tool. Planning to pick one up since my regular one is failing.

Just that it's recommended by many & used successfully on this generation computer.

As far as the timing goes, if it's not detonating, has reasonable power, temps aren't excessive & the plugs aren't cracked or melted, I'd be tempted to put some miles on it.

Do you still have the chain exposed? I'd love to throw a piston stop in the #1 plug hole & see what the timing marks look like then.

That doctor was killed on the day after we left same beach we were on


would have been nice to ck out the cam timing but that is done


a friend of mine his first response was it’s mechanical after checking what I have done he believes it just too much
(gt40 heads and cam) change for the pcm to run so it looks like I’m dumping more $$ into the black hole.

Studying mas air/ Mustang Explorers system

Hi Roy,

Here is one option, I'm not sure if you have already looked into this option but thought I would throw it out there, just in case.

'QuarterHorse' for Fords [QH1] - $249.00 : Moates.Net

I need to check my pcm eec I’m thinking it’s not working correctly it’s 30 years old and then look at add on or overlays


thanks for the ideas

I used the Quarterhorse and Binary Editor with good results, just took a while to get there.

I had an almost identical build, and before I put in the chip and tuned it, it still ran pretty well, as far as A/F goes in closed loop. I had same heads and Comp 35-349 cam which is similar to yours. My comment doesnt solve your issue, but you should know that your setup should run alright on a stock MAF computer.

Yes Maf I’m on sd so may change would that Quarterhorse work on SD

Every time I've tried to scan codes on a faulty EEC-IV ECU, it will not output codes and depending on the tester type will display nothing, or will output a constant sound with no beeping.

Another tuning/diagnostics option is our PiMPx standalone ECU (you don't need the PiMPxshift since you've got an AOD). It replaces the stock ECU with a modern completely tunable option and allows you to view all sensor readings, engine parameters, has a diagnostics mode, has an auto tune mode that dials in the air/fuel ratio while you just drive around, and uses a modern wideband o2 sensor so you can see the air/fuel ratio under all conditions (useful for tuning and diagnostics). It can run speed density or mass-air, works with the stock harness, and comes with its own support staff via our support forum and a detailed startup guide as well as tuning guides and such. It's more expensive than a Quarterhorse but the QH doesn't replace your 30 year old (possibly faulty) ECU either, and the QH is more time consuming to tune with/learn how to use. If you've got a faulty ECU right now the QH won't fix that so you'd be looking at a QH+New ECU+wideband+BE software which puts it in a different price range than it first appears. See my signature if interested in reading more about our PiMPx system, or you can see the thread about our products on this forum: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...his-forum.html

Thanks for info looking into it

This is very interesting have any of you guys got experience with these ecu sounds too good.

It's not been out very long and most of our customers are in the Lightning pickup community so far. We just started advertising about them on here last month. I know there is one guy on here that has two of them in two of his trucks though (he bought them before we started posting about them on here). I'll see if I can locate his posts, I found them in the past.

Here are some of his posts, he's using the PIMPx as he's got a non-computer controlled trans and his truck is batch fire. It's still the same tuning process, software, support, etc. though, just different hardware than the PiMPxs (sequential with no trans control) or PiMPxshift (batch or sequential EFI with trans control for E4OD's and such:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18509735

Just for clarification before it gets too far away.

Did you ever check for verifiable top dead center & the accuracy of the marks on your balancer?

I can't seem to find anything, but could have missed it.

Glad you're getting some response on tuning options.

Yes on tdc I do not have a piston stop though
i pulled the pcm today and I can’t see any burn ares or anything out of ordinary
i picked up some other parts that I hope get me running with the help of Chuck

This was going to be a budget build and I am for sure in a black hole
I don’t know if this is the answer or not and if it is I going to need some help
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...612516e5bc.jpg

Man I hate it when your right I had the balancer on TDC pulled the head and the piston was almost a 1/4” below the block deck. My checking was not correct.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...60882e667.jpeg
Timing mark with piston at TDC
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2674197c7.jpeg

Man no joy other than you found something to put things right.

Been meaning to bump this thread to see how you were doing.

I have been taking a break from truck for a while family time headed to North Carolina soon more family time. I got a explorer intake with pcm and wire harness I guess I’ll put that stuff in. my electric engineer Chuck had Hart surgery and is doing good so with his help I’ll figure this out.

Looks like a new balancer. The markings are a little off. You could replace the pointer with an aftermarket adjustable unit.. A word of advice with that chrome T-Stat cover: rought up the gasket face before trying to use it, otherwise it's gonna leak. Chrome's too slick to get a seal with anything.

I’m probably going to make a new mark don’t know just what yet, on the t-cover not using that one I hope

Well you can always just use it as is, taking note of where zero is in relation to the factory pointer, looks like it falls right in the middle of the "U". I think I have an earlier 70's pointer on my Comet, I'll look at it later and see how that one lines up with your's