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  1. MoyockPowerstroke
    05-24-2010 09:02 PM - permalink
    Sorry sskeetr1...thought Id answered your question a while back.
  2. MoyockPowerstroke
    05-24-2010 09:02 PM - permalink
    You can just weld up both ends of the cooler, but if you have an 05MY or later, there is still the uppipe scoop to contend with (making a delete kit a better option). Keep in mind that be just welding both ends of the cooler still means that coolant is flowing through it and at some point (due to its thin wall design) could and may likely crack causing a potential hydro-lock situation. Again, a decent kit eliminates that issue. BY removing the exhaust gases from the intake you keep your intake and turbo from coking up , not to mention your egr valve (if you decide to keep it plugged in...some people do). If you have an 05MY or later, you will usually throw a CEL and will need a custom tune that will clear the CEL...otherwise you will be staring at a CEL indication in your instrument cluster. The custom tune is written to fake the PCM into thinking that your egr valve is not only plugged in, but that its reading the right amount of dirty air.
  3. MoyockPowerstroke
    01-07-2010 07:05 AM - permalink
    When performing the EGR delete mod, its best to just go ahead and completly remove the intake manifold, as opposed to just loosening it....that was you can clean the intake manifolf thouroughly...it also gives you the opportunity to rebuild your oil cooler (heat exchanger)....the oil cooler harbors most of the crud from your engines coolant flow...either casting sands from manufactuer or drop out of silica and metals from the internal passages...this crud reduces the effectiveness of the cooler and ultimately can cause oil/coolant mixing or overheating of your egr cooler and then coolant/intake air mixing....a good way to tell this oil cooler may be blocked ot becoming blocked is to see the differences between voth ECT and EOT...if the range between the two is greater than 15*F...you have blockage and should do this. Just another bit of insurance. After performing the oil cooler rebuild, it makes good sense to then add the coolant filer to help avoid future blockages.
  4. MoyockPowerstroke
    01-07-2010 07:05 AM - permalink
    You're going to love this...I just lost my jump drive that had that write up on it so, I need to re-create it. Essentially, what you are doing is replacing the internal heat exchanger (small 4 x 6.5 x 5" radiator looking component), and seals and gaskets. Both Ford and International offer a kit that has these items...sells on ebay for around $175-$300. Dealer cost is considerably more.
  5. alchymist
    02-05-2009 09:53 AM - permalink
    Hi,

    As far as i know the 2005 thru 2008 is the same.....do a forum search on upfitter high idle..there's lots of hookup info...
    Clay

About Me

  • About sskeetr1
    Location
    southern oh
    2 Letter State/Province (use "--" for outside USA/
    oh
    Country of Residence
    US
    Make
    Ford
    Model
    F-350
    Year
    2005
    Current Mileage
    Rather not say
    Miles per year
    5,000 - 9,999

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  • Last Activity: 03-24-2014 01:00 AM
  • Join Date: 01-23-2009
  • Referrals: 0

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