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Kemicalburns Kemicalburns is offline

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About Me

  • About Kemicalburns
    2 Letter State/Province (use "--" for outside USA/
    Country of Residence
    Current Mileage
    75,000 - 99,999
    Miles per year
    1,000 - 4,999
  • Signature
    2007 xlt F250 CC 6.0 stock, 33 ToyoMT
    2009 Focus
    -- FOR SALE g
    94 Bronco XLT 357/E4OD/Warn HS9500I,6"ProComp Stage II 35x12.5x15 BFG AT's,4.88 gears/AussieFront/rear open,Edelbrock efi intake,jba headers


Total Posts
Visitor Messages
General Information
  • Last Activity: Today 04:20 PM
  • Join Date: 07-10-2002
  • Referrals: 0


Showing Friends 1 to 6 of 6

Visitor Messages

Showing Visitor Messages 11 to 20 of 41
  1. Kemicalburns
    02-24-2011 05:26 PM - permalink
    I do not have a step by step. but the swap has been done by many in both the bronco and truck forums. Best advice is to have a complete efi 5.8 from 92-95 F150/250/350. Also make sure you have the proper flexplate/flywheel. the 300-6 flexplate/flywheel will not work on the 5.8. you will also need the complete v8 wiring harness and computer. this computer should match what tranny you have.
    Just curious, why are you getting rid of the 300? its an awesome engine that is often misunderstood. it will outlive most any V8 and is a work horse.
  2. 02-24-2011 03:12 PM - permalink
    I've seen some posts where you reference performing a swap from a 300 to a 351W. I was wondering if you have a detailed walkthrough of the steps. I will be making the swap on a 92 f250 soon and would like to know what to watch out for. Thanks in advance.
  3. 01-22-2011 12:49 PM - permalink
    I updated my post on the 351w banging noise
  4. Kemicalburns
    04-11-2010 01:10 PM - permalink
    well it sounds like you are not running the correct firing order and possibly have the timing 180* out. did you leave the mustang distributor in place during the swap? what year truck did you install this into?
  5. szealuss
    04-10-2010 09:37 PM - permalink
    Update to the swap-- I got a 46,000 mile 95 mustang motor.

    Took it down to a long block and added new oil pump and timing chain and swapped all the EFI from the original truck. Put everything back together just like I pulled it. It's in and is very hard to start have to hold it wide open to get it to fire. Then it seems to run fine--then it runs rough-- now it is almost impossible to start--and then it will start. WTF.

    I have run any diagnostic on it --I did double back and check all my sensors and they are all connected. Everything is exactly like it was New. Except it doesn't run right. Any ideas? Do i have to reset something? MAP sensor-fast idle sensor? Any help much appreciated. THANX
  6. Kemicalburns
    01-15-2010 11:34 AM - permalink
    i think oil and water temp are good ideas. i would pass on the volt gauge unless you want it. do some searches on here or they have a thread dedicated to gauge installs and what folks did. you would run a t fitting setup for the temp gauge and same for the oil. if you have an auto tranny having a temp gauge for that would be a smart idea also vs the volt gauge in my opinion.
  7. 01-14-2010 08:04 PM - permalink
    got one more question for you on this can i hook up just a mech gauge for the temp ? and volt without messing with the oil or would it be worth hooking the oil up also ?
  8. Kemicalburns
    01-12-2010 01:23 PM - permalink
    your working with EFI correct. it is important to have those gauges hooked up in there stock locations. you can then install mechanical or better electronic gauges on like your A pillar or under the dash. just T into those general areas. the volt meter that you get with a mechanical gauge cluster is kind of a waste as the volt gauge on the rigs tend to be good. i have not hooked up a volt gauge in some time so you may have to locate a thread regarding the proper connection of that for your rig.
  9. 01-12-2010 08:42 AM - permalink
    long time no talk man hope all is well i have another question for ya i know it's sad i can't figure anything out on my own lol well i am having gauge troubles now and i want to hook up oil,temp and volt gauges what will i have to do to make this happen i don't care if the pressure guage or temp gauge works in the truck afterwards but the volt gauge has to work in order to charge right ? so i hope you can give me some ideas on this any help would be nice thanks again
  10. Kemicalburns
    12-03-2009 10:38 AM - permalink
    i like it, probably should have gone with full 6" rear springs instead of the dual AAL's. Also take the time to install new radius arm bushings and pivot bushings, its far more difficult to change/replace these afterwards. Also use a plumb bob centered on your fender well with the hub so you are sure to get the wheel centered. then measure back to mount the brackets. i think my brackets might be an inch to far back and it sucks. you are going to be running the extended radius arms right?

    good luck

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