Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: TexasRebel

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TexasRebel TexasRebel is offline


About Me

  • About TexasRebel
    Stillwater, OK
    2 Letter State/Province (use "--" for outside USA/
    Country of Residence
    Current Mileage
    125,000 - 149,999
    Miles per year
    5,000 - 9,999
  • Signature
    2008 F-250 XL 5.4L Reg. Cab 4x2 6-spd 4.10 w/B&W "Turnoverball"
    OE Options installed: TowCommand Brake controller, Upgraded to 4 spkr. Single CD/AM/FM w/AUX from 2 spkr. AM/FM, cab clearance lights, Fog Lights, Cruise Control, Redundant Audio Controls, RKE.


Total Posts
Visitor Messages
General Information
  • Last Activity: 07-01-2019 03:14 PM
  • Join Date: 06-12-2008
  • Referrals: 0


Showing Friends 1 to 1 of 1

Visitor Messages

Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 25
  1. 04-19-2017 10:31 AM - permalink
    Hey, TexasRebel. I recently posted in an old thread and was hoping you could take a look at it ( Thanks.
  2. 10-28-2016 01:44 AM - permalink
    Hello TexasRebel, i was wondering if you can point me in the right direction here.... I'm looking to install fog lights into my 2008 ford ranger XL. 3.0L.. I have purchased the FOG Light Switch, and also purchased Fog Light Housing + Assemblies for the bumper.... i am just trying to locate this Wiring Harness that you used.. where can i find that ? and when you installed the Fog light switch on the dash, was there any additional wiring needed inside, or just plug and play? ? thank you - kody
  3. Mark Kovalsky
    02-06-2016 04:54 PM - permalink
    "Handshakers for life! I kid, I kid, but I am buying a mustang because of it"

    I agree.

    For five years at Ford I supervised an engineering section in the automatic transmission for the Lincoln LS. I now have a Lincoln LS, but with a manual trans. In three years of production there were only 2,200 of these cars built, and I have one.

    When I replace this car my plan is a new Mustang, and I wouldn't have a Mustang with an automatic.

  4. 01-08-2016 11:22 AM - permalink
    I will say this much however . . . I am absolutely amazed (no, stunned!) that the entire drivetrain for this reasonably heavy truck is dependent on that single, relatively small set of splines on the front of the driveline. You would think that the immense torque applied by a whopping 6.7L diesel motor would spin the splines right off of a shaft that small and fragile in nature. That part simply amazes me! Wouldn't you think they'd want to couple those two parts with something far sturdier than a single, fine-toothed shaft like that??

    Anyway, thanks again for providing me with the assistance that you did. I'm most grateful. And Happy New Year to you!
  5. 01-08-2016 11:22 AM - permalink
    However, like an idiot, when I jacked-up the truck to remove the stock F350 blocks, I failed to chock the two front wheels, and without my knowing just how it was all designed, the vehicle rolled forward about 4-inches and the front spline of the drive shaft slipped out of the yoke in the slip joint, resulting in misalignment of the two parts.

    Anyway, to make a long story short, I disconnected the rear half of the driveline from the rear differential to help make alignment of the spline with the slip joint yoke possible, and when I did so (i.e., once I had the driveline completely detached from the rear end), the front spline slid right into place the way it was supposed to. I then turned the wheels until the holes for the four 12mm bolts that attach the rear of the driveline to the differential lined-up, and everything then worked out just fine. I reinstalled the 4 bolts with lock-tite and torqued the 8 new u-bolt nuts at the rear end, and shazam!
  6. 01-08-2016 11:18 AM - permalink

    My thanks for your excellent contributions to this thread and for this detailed message, and please accept my sincere apologies for the delay in responding to it. Unfortunately, I just now discovered it (today on January 8th), after having some computer problems and being logged-off of the forum.

    Anyway, to answer your question and help update you on just what happened with this ordeal . . . this whole thing started with my desire to level this new F350 by dropping the overall height of the rear-end by 2-inches. I simply wanted to replace the 4" tall rear leaf spring blocks that come standard on F350s with the shorter (2-inch tall) F250 blocks. Seems simple enough, right? And it certainly should have been! (SEE PART 2 OF MESSAGE TO FOLLOW).
  7. 12-18-2015 11:43 AM - permalink
    Greetings, Texas Rebel!

    I'm a new forum member, and I'm having a bit of trouble determining the proper alignment and installation of the front spline on the rear driveshaft of a 2015 F350. I've posted a new thread on it here this morning, and I see from some earlier related threads that you might have experience on this subject. If so, and if you're willing to provide me with any opinions or guidance, I'd sure appreciate it. The new thread is located at:

    Either way, my thanx to you for listening and Happy Holidays!
    10-21-2015 08:17 AM - permalink
    I have the same setup as you and did the same exact thing. However my audio switch doesn't work(switch is new). Any thoughts on what may be wrong.
  9. bucci
    07-13-2014 01:01 PM - permalink
    Maybe my '09 6 spd with MTF has to do with the 2008 build date. That is why I posted the build date. Thanks for the rep!
  10. 05-04-2014 01:15 PM - permalink
    I think that you are right that the change over to just one transducer to do all was in '11. I checked on from 2006 to 2010 for the numbers on the IBC transducer and they are all the same and it doesn't matter if the truck has vacuum or hydro boost, the same part is used. I bought a master cylinder that was a reman as I couldn't see spending the large sum of money to buy a complete one, so it didn't come with the transducers. I bought the transducer from an online Ford dealer and it is the part number listed to come with the M/C, but the connectors don't match. Do you happen to remember what the connectors looked like? I am trying to figure out if the transducer is wrong, or the wiring harness. I have pictures of the wiring harness side and the transducer side, but cannot figure out how to add pictures...

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