Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300

Using a Chinese 1BBl on my 300 temporarily

fatheroftwo — Tue, 12 May 2026 01:29:57 GMT

The place for the ported vacuum is just a hole, not sure if is operational, here are pics of the old and new
carb, anyone know where the ported vacuum fitting for the distributer vacuum hose should go?

the port near the throttle pivot is missing, as you can see, I hooked my dist. vac. hose down below

old carb, tube is there, and dist was connected there.

Block casting codes

john jamieson — Tue, 12 May 2026 00:42:58 GMT

The engine I pulled out of my '66 has D2AE-6015 and 2F22. What if anything does the 2F22 stand for? I know it's not the original engine.
Thanks. John

Trying to figure out what all I have, first 300, running very rich..

nairod — Sun, 10 May 2026 16:57:08 GMT

I just got this truck, it's a 71, had a 3 on the tree, maybe 240. At some point it got a NP465 and I think a 300. It's running really rich. I think the carb is a 1946, but I'm not familiar with anything on these engines, and this was a ranch truck I got that has really shakey "repairs" on it. Baling wire throttle linkage, etc. So, anyway,
1. There's a solenoid looking device near the hot air choke, it's not connected.
2. There's a dangling vac line from the manifold over to the distributor. There looks like there could have been a vac cannister on the distributor where the vac line dangles, but there's not.
3. I will run the engine later today and see if the choke opens. I bet not, it runs really rich even when warm (black smoke), but I guess it could be flooding, too.
4. Idles rough.

I know this is pretty vague, but I"d appreciate your help steering me in the right direction. Thanks.

Offy 6019DP and Holly 390 Carb Install Q

CornfedCritMachine — Sat, 02 May 2026 00:50:49 GMT

Hi all. I lurk here quite a bit to soak up some knowledge, but couldn't find the answer to what I'm looking for. I have an 86 F150 300 I6 that I'm looking to replace the stock intake manifold and carb with the Offy 6019DP 4 bbl and a Holly 390. I'll upgrade to some efi exhaust manifolds, but im saving that for a later date when I have more time on my hands.

I'll be taking off the EGR "spacer" and not replacing it with anything; it'll be carb on intake. Will I need a spacer to make up for that? Does the offy 6019DP sit higher than the stock intake? Will a roughly 1 inch spacer in between be too tall and I'll have to adjust elsewhere to make this setup fit?

*I originally posted this in the 80-86 forum, but I thought this was probably a better place for it.

Help me ID what I've got please

TA455HO — Sun, 26 Apr 2026 22:56:26 GMT

1966 F250 4x4 that came with the 300 6-cylinder. Picture of the truck before I bought it.

F26BR831340 - B is 300, of course. March 1966 build month. B5 - Dana 60 locking diff.

Window sticker calls out the 300 and limited slip

Build sheet confirms VIN and B engine code. 08C - March 8th scheduled date.

Truck seems at least fairly original. Negative battery cable still seems like it might be original. I'm going to swap it out since the insulation is cracking.

Engine block casting is C6AE-6015-D with a date code of 6B23 - February 23, 1966.

Engine tag is still present. 6-C - March 1966 and shows the 300 as expected.

Front of head under valve cover has a date code of 6B10 - February 10, 1966. Seems to be fairly close to engine block date. But...

...the single letter code at the back end of the head seems to be an A - 240 cylinder head, correct? Interesting it's just 13 days before the block.

Distributor is an ID number C6TF-12127-AF with a date code of 6BC - 3rd week of February 1966. - Looking at the breaker plate, it does not have any springs showing on top so dual advance as far as I can tell - can take a picture of that if wanted.

MPC shows that ID number as being for a 300 L/D with Standard Transmission also indicating it's not a LOM. Truck has an NP435 4-speed.

I have not measured the stroke yet as I'd assumed the block was a 300, at least, but I'll measure that soon. Looking for 3.98". Also have not yet located any C6AE casting ID number on the head. Might not be present. There is FoMoCo cast on both the block and head. Thinking 1966 or 1967 was last year for FoMoCo casting but not 100% positive on that.

Does it look like to others that someone did this truck a favor by finding a 240 small chamber head? I have not pulled the head yet to compare to pictures showing a comparison between 240 and 300 chambers.

Help! Let's play what's that engine squeak.

19Red76 — Fri, 24 Apr 2026 22:12:47 GMT

Reaching out the 300 collective brain-trust here to try to figure out a chirping/squeaking noise coming from my engine. This is a ‘78 block and head with a recent rebuild and has developed this issue.

Some information about the build is here: Yet another 300 build - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

The chirp gets louder as the engine gets warm, but you can barely hear it sometimes even on startup. I’ve ruled out almost everything and am hoping to get some input. I’ve tried with the stethoscope to locate the noise but haven’t had much success locking into a specific point. It seems to be coming from the front top end of the engine.

Here is a link to a video I posted for people to give a listen:

Here is what I have ruled out: belts and accessories, anything transmission related (throw-out bearing, pilot bushing, etc.), bottom end bearings, distributor, oil pump, fuel pump.

It has Melling stock-type rocker arms with the grooved ball fulcrums. I pulled each, and there doesn’t seem to be anything visually wrong. I’ve readjusted preload multiple times, no change. Zero lash plus � turn. I had 3/8 ARP rocker arm studs installed so it’s not the simple torque down.

Camshaft (Isky 256) is straight (.0005 runout) and turns smoothly in the block, so I doubt its cam related. Cam lobes look fine and all lifters (also Isky) look good and are rotating just fine. The top end seems to be getting good oil, all seem to oil about the same except the #2 exhaust which is like one of those pop-up pulsating lawn sprinklers – it puts out a lot. I pulled that lifter, disassembled, cleaned, and inspected it. Everything seems okay, but it still does the same thing. I would change it out just to see if that’s an issue (I have a couple spare Isky lifters), but I really don’t want to do another cam break-in (and run that risk) unless that is my last option.

No bent pushrods, and none are plugged.

I’m running out of ideas. I did a search here and found where AbandonedBronco had a squeaking coming from his rockers, so I’m wondering if that might be what’s going on. However, I don’t want to drop the coin on roller rockers only to find it didn’t fix the problem, plus there’s the geometry hassle and the possible stock valve cover issue.

Still piling up parts, Offy 6227C and carb are next on the list

fatheroftwo — Tue, 21 Apr 2026 01:40:09 GMT

Trying to decide which 4v carb to get. I have been buying Edelbrock's for decades since I got very
tired of replacing power valves in my Holley's every week. I have read that in the early 90's they
fixed the issue with a check valve in the newer power valves. Holley or Edelbrock? Size?

Going to place the order with Summit Wednesday.