Conversation Between ToysRUs and hasteranger

I haven't ever had good luck with "sound sending" turn on technology, especially at low volumes. flips the sub on and off as the bass hits. annoying. The wire you would tap behind the radio is the switched power wire. I'm sure you could find it in a stereo faq for the excursion somewhere. It won't hurt the sub to be on when the truck is running, and if you ever want to turn it off, you can just wire a toggle switch in line with the remote lead. Thats the way I would do it, but that doesn't mean its the only way.

I found this little $12 part.
You wire it into a speaker wire and to a power wire. (both which are going to the sub, using high level to give sub signal) and when the speaker wire senses voltage it turns on the sub. Then it waits 1 min after the speaker stops sending voltage and then shuts the sub off.
I can wire it either behind the spare tire panel where all the wires come out OR probably on the sub itself....
Pulled my radio and there is no "remote" blue wire and I don;t want the sub on all the time the truck is on. (I don't always use the radio.)
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You mean a remote turn on wire? You could just wire it to an ignition switched power source, but the radio has its own turn on because it stays on for 5 mins after you switch power off but before you open the door, and also with the key in ACC. Your best bet is just to pull the radio and tap the factory power wire (not sure which one, use a digital multimeter) and run a thin (18 gauge is fine) turn on lead to the amplifier. the 18 gauge wire will be easy to snake along under the door jambs, which pop up easily using a thin trim tool.

Hi,
Thanks for replying to my post. Ive seen that you have dove into the radio thing. Im wondering if you found a remote trigger wire from the oem rse radio? Im wiring a little band pass sub also today and nedd to wire a trigger. Do you have any thoughts?
Thanks
D.J.

sealing the door cavity will help. around the speaker will help more.. laws of diminishing returns apply as you get further out. I'm not sure the rear doors are thick enough to mount speakers and keep them off the door glass without the plastic baffle, but that doesn't mean you can't make your own spacers out of wood or something if you feel like thats the best solution.

Yeah, I don't expect the Bass. The fronts already give more bass than stock. I think the oem baffles are the problem. So a piece of peel and seal between the baffle and the door and what do you think about a piece around the baffle sealing all the gaps in it? OR I thought about sealing the baffle gaps and cutting a hole in the door panel to use the door cavity as the front does???????

youre never gonna get the same bass out of components as you will even with a 6.5" tube subwoofer. The rears shouldn't sound any worse than the fronts, though. try putting a layer of peel and seal or sound deadening between the baffles and the doors. The stock baffles are leaky sob's.

Since you have recently done a nice component speaker install I thought you might have thoughts on my install. This weekend I came across a great deal on 4 infinity Kappa 682.9's. ($64/pair) Nice coax speakers with adj tweeter. Install was the easiest ever.
The fronts rock out, the rear doors not so much. I think it is the crappy surface mount housing.
I tried taping up the edges to seal the box but that's not the problem.
Do you have any ideas?
My goal is to make the stock system sound better not high endy. I've kind of met that already.
I may add a bazooka or a thin mount sub under a rear seat later we'll just see.