Conversation Between AzPatMan and chuckadian

And like I said - I used a screw as the ground (on either side) which is what the header panel mounts to https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ocDTiP5A-9E/UNyC-0S5czI/AAAAAAAACAw/f7aloLy8Gks/s1103/IMAG0425.jpg
As for the gauge - since it's only really needed for voltage and not amps, It's a multi-core 14ga.
Also - if you go this route in the grille or where-ever on the outside - Use some Loctite superglue and run a thin ring around the glass lens, and the black casing. I had 2 lenses fall off and I wound up having to redo them after using the glue. Been perfect ever since.
If you do it just right - no one will even notice the glue when they're off, and sure as hell can't tell when they're on.

Thank you.
To be honest - I don't have a relay on it (yet.) I'm using a switched power source off a fuse tap in the fuse panel. That way - it's guaranteed to be off when the ignition is off. And since it's the most minimal of amp draw, it's been a non-issue running it without the relay - but I do have a switch as just a bypass so I can turn off on demand. I thought about running a tap off the parking lights - but I like this way better (for now.)
As for wiring, since each LED has it's own resistor (inside the post) I ran the them in Parallel.
After screwing the nut on the back (with a little dot of blue Loctite) to the grille,
I cut a little bit of sheath off, and then ran some shrink tube, and then used some bullet post crimp's so that they can be disconnected with a little bit of ease if needed.

Hi! I really like your DRL light project. I am thinking about doing something similar and I have a few questions! What relay did you use? Did you wire them in series or parallel, and what gauge wire did you use?
Thank you in advance!