Conversation Between jbontke and wakeboarder32

Hey John,
I couldnt look at your pictures because our computers only allow us to access certain sites (in afghanistan on governent comp) if you could email wakeboarder3231@gmail.com sorry for the inconveinience. I would definately like to get that off of you and $200 would be great! I am still trying to figure out how rear ends work, did you not go with it because it wasnt posi-trac? What is the draw back to having open differential? and can you change it to be posi-trac? My dad will be in town i think at the end of the week and will be in town for several days, would you possibly be able to meet him half way? If you could send those pics that would be great! thanks again look forward to hearing from you, maybe someday in the distant future we could go cruising, haha.
simon

When I was buying the rear axel, I took it apart because the guy selling it said it was a 4.11 posi setup. Glad I looked. It is a 3.25 with open diff rear diff. The axes are good, no pitting. The gears have some pitting, but they work. I was planning to replace then anyway, but it will run as is. The axel seals are bad and it will need new shoes. The drums are think and machineable. All of the rust on the outside is surface rust. No rust in the rear. Nice thing was this rear end did not sit for a while, meaning that the brake wheel cylinder hydraulics are good and the inside is rust free.

I paid $300 for it all. Too much of you ask me. I want to get $200 and some space back in my garage. What do you think?

John

Hi wakeboarder32,

Here are the pics of the rear axel: F100_9IN_AXEL pictures by jabontke - Photobucket

This will be two messages. I tried to put a description of what all is in each picture. I will try to explain here what I know about the rear end. I bought it off a running truck and took it off my self. That is the reason there are so many parts there. It has the e-brake cables, hardware, steel brake lines and splitter block, drive shaft u-bolts, two 15" wheels with tires (one is a ploy-glass in good shape, ha ha) and the spring perch u-bolts. I bought everything needed to blot this under my 56 and be able to drive on it. It has 3.25 gears, I said 3.00 earlier, but I was thinking of the 9" currently under my 56.

Hello, I am kinda of doing the same thing with my 56f100, I have a 351w being stroked out to a 408 and should be good for 550-600HP, i was leaning toward going to the Mustang II but have thought about staying with stock front end just to be able to get on the road like you are. Are you swapping the rear end? how much HP are you getting out of the 302? This is my first project as well and im not sure if i should stick with the stock set up with that beefy of a motor, what do you think? I actually ordered the tubular mount and transmission mount with the bolt kits from midfifty as well, i was about to see if they would swap them for the weld in ones for the IFS. Anyways any thoughts would be much appreciated!