My old 68 has been with the family since it was new and has seen many uses. The shifter (3 on the tree) is sloppy and loose. Whats the best way to tighten it up? I have redone the linkeges down on the tranny but it is still sloppy. I think a lot of it is on the shifter lever itself? Would a new grear shift insulator be the ticket on the colume?

 

I'm told that new rubber grommets on all the linkage components make a huge difference. Never did it myself but a friend had a Dodge with a 3 on the tree and replaced all the rubber components and he said it felt like a new truck.

 

Chances are the collar where the shift lever mounts is worn out. They can be had from several different vendors.

 

The 3 speed manual's shift lever is retained to the shift collar by a hardened steel split roll pin.

Over time, the hole in the collar that pin fits into becomes elongated. That causes the shift lever to wiggle around.
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On the bottom of the steering column under the hood are the two manual control selector levers where the rods from the transmission attach.

In each one of these levers is a rubber bushing, plastic (or steel) insulator.

When the bushings age, they harden up and crack apart...causing not only sloppy shifting, but the shift lever can bind up between 1st and 2nd gear.

1) C5TZ-7343-A .. Bushing & Insulator Kit / One kit does both levers / Obsolete

Fits: 1965/72 F100/250's with 3 speed manual transmission. Also 1965/71 F100's with 3 speed Overdrive.

 

Wow thanks for the good info folks.

 

What is entaled in replacing the shift coller on this 3 on the tree? That looks like most of my problem.

 

A service manual is a good thing to have but here's a quick step by step.

1) Chock the wheels, trans in neutral.
2) Disconnect the battery or at least the wire to the horn.
3) Give the horn button ( or ring ) a twist clockwise and remove it.
4) Pull the horn contact out of the steering wheel so you don't lose it.
5) Note the position of the steering wheel and remove it ( you'll need a puller).
6) Disconnect the turn signal switch wiring under the dash. A lot of folks cut the connecter off then splice the wires back together. I like to make a quick diagram of the connecter pins then pull the wires out of the connecter. It makes a better finished job.
7) Remove the t/s switch screws and pull the switch and wiring out of the column.
8) Use a small hammer and punch to drive the shift lever pin out and remove the lever.
9) Remove the snap ring on the steering shaft.
10) Loosen but don't remove the two 7/16" headed nuts in the t/s switch housing.
11) Now pull the t/s housing off. You'll likely have to wiggle it around a bit.
12) Remove the thrust washer on the top of the shift collar.
13) The shift collar will now come off. When you slide it up be careful not to pull the shift tube with it.
14) Reverse the order to reassemble. Be sure to use some white lithium grease where the collar slides over the tube. Most chassis grease is too thick and can cause problems on a cold morning.

 

Thanks Redcat Diesel! Thats a real good description. I appreciate the time you put into it

 

Counter clockwise also works, but....

Press down first on the horn ring or button and hold in that position...then turn it to remove it.

If you do not press down while trying to remove the button or ring, you'll snap off one, two or all three of the tabs from the plastic retainer that holds the ring/button to the wheel.

If those tabs snap off, the ring/button cannot be re-installed properly. The plastic retainer (C2DZ13A809A) is obsolete, though it has been reproduced.

To re-install the horn ring or button, line the tabs up...then press down and twist to install it. Do not forget the following...

Warning: There is a large coil spring behind the button or ring. Remove the ring/button slowly. Otherwise that spring may hit you in the face.

These is a small black plastic bushing that fits into the steering wheel that the horn contact (brush) fits into.

Most ppl don't see it....when the steering wheel is removed, and laid down somewhere...it usually falls out.

When being re-assembled, ppl wonder why the horn brush doesn't fit correctly.

The horn will not blow without that bushing...and it was only sold with the horn brush (C2OZ13A821A).

 

Thanks again folks, I realy appreciate.

 

I've been rebuilding columns for the past 26 years and I would safely say, you're probably not going to replace any one or two parts and fix it. As some others posted, some of it could be in the rubber bushings, or the collar, but the rubber insulator on the shifter handle itself has no effect.
In most cases a little wear over the years in the bushings at both end of the linkage, the shift collar, the upper and lower tabs on the shift tube, and the plastic spacers between the shift arms (at the bottom) of the column can cause a lot af slop when you at them all together. Besides, you are the only one that can see what you have so really you are the one that has to determine where the play is at and what you need. If not, you could be replacing several parts based on elimination that don't need to be replaced.

 

That shift lever rubber bushing has nothing to do with the following kit =

C5TZ7343A .. Bushing and Insulator kit is for the two manual control selector levers on the steering column, not for the shift lever itself, not for the two levers on the transmission.

I've prolly sold...at least...1000...of these C5TZ kits from 1965 thru 1997.

There was no bushings of any kind....at all....on the transmission's control levers for many years.

 

A word of warning when purchasing the C5TZ-7343-A bushing kit. We quit carrying them because Ford doesn't put all the parts in the package to make the kit complete. There should be 2 rubber bushings, 2 fluted brass inserts that go all the way through the bushings, and 2 thin brass washers that go over the end of the fluted insert on the end where they brad together.
They no longer put the washer in the kit so it can all be braded together. I talked with my Ford rep. about this 4 years ago and he said they would get it resolved and they never have.
When purchasing a kit, ask if it is a 4 piece kit or a 6 piece kit. There should be 6 pieces.

 

Thank you GOOD INFO!

 

i drive a 83 ford and i was driving home from work and i lost all my gears(1st 2nd 3rd and even reverse) i was thinking it was the linkage getting binded up but could it be i lost my clutch? if anyone could help me with this prob before monday would be nice.its my first truck and its all i got to get me from skool and back and to work