Replacing the floor pan on a 68
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 705
Likes: 2
From: stinkin lincoln, maine
YES!!!
Only cut out the rust, not the entire floor pan!! Just use the new floor pan for patch panels and cut out what you need!!
I cut out the entire drivers side floor on mine, and after getting discouraged because of the cluster**** I had, I haven't touched it for 2 years.....The floors not quite even, and not quite the same depth as the pass side. I even cut the replacement pan in half before welding it in to make the fitment easier.....completey F'd....so I'm cutting it again, and gonna fix it the best I can, then cover it with insulation and carpet, and underneath will be the new cab mount and undercoating.
So again....
Only cut out the rust, not the entire floor pan!! Just use the new floor pan for patch panels and cut out what you need!!
Only cut out the rust, not the entire floor pan!! Just use the new floor pan for patch panels and cut out what you need!!
I cut out the entire drivers side floor on mine, and after getting discouraged because of the cluster**** I had, I haven't touched it for 2 years.....The floors not quite even, and not quite the same depth as the pass side. I even cut the replacement pan in half before welding it in to make the fitment easier.....completey F'd....so I'm cutting it again, and gonna fix it the best I can, then cover it with insulation and carpet, and underneath will be the new cab mount and undercoating.
So again....
Only cut out the rust, not the entire floor pan!! Just use the new floor pan for patch panels and cut out what you need!!
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 705
Likes: 2
From: stinkin lincoln, maine
Also, I was in a hurry to see how bad the end result was gonna be, so some of my problem was welding it too fast, warping it in the center where I cut the piece in half.
Just put a few spot welds in one section, then a few somewhere else, etc, so the metal doesn't get too hot and warp.
Just put a few spot welds in one section, then a few somewhere else, etc, so the metal doesn't get too hot and warp.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
I have done this. It's labor intensive, but not too bad. As indicated, you need to be careful of warping. I also recommend having as good a replacement part as possible. I used Dennis Carpenter parts and was very happy with them. They are made off the original die. Are you replacing the Cab Suport? I would recommend overlapping the old floor and using plug welds. I spaced mine every 1 1/2" inch, but that was overkill in retrospect. Also, use liberal ampounts of screws and nuts to hold everything in place as you weld. Fill the holes when you are done. Above all, use a MIG welder.
