Wife just smeared my box side
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Junior User
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Wife just smeared my box side
My wife came home tonight to tell me how in the 15 min. she was gone with my truck('06 Super Duty Crew Cab Short Box)she managed to turn to tight around a steel fence post and smeared the drivers side of my box for about 2 feet. 
It starts around the fuel door and continues well into the wheel well. There is definite creasing in the sheet metal near the top. Can anyone tell me if I can replace just the outer fender, the entire box side, or do I need a Complete Box??
It starts around the fuel door and continues well into the wheel well. There is definite creasing in the sheet metal near the top. Can anyone tell me if I can replace just the outer fender, the entire box side, or do I need a Complete Box??
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Junior User
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Just got back from the body shop and I have to either replace the skin or replace the box. Looks like I won't get away for less than $2500.00 if I go the cheap way.
Anyone know if replacing a fender skin will give me rust problems on the inside later on, or can they get in there pretty good from the inside to paint everything. A new box might cost me more today, but save having to redo it again in 3-5 years. I live in Ontario, Canada and they aren't shy with the road salt.
Anyone know if replacing a fender skin will give me rust problems on the inside later on, or can they get in there pretty good from the inside to paint everything. A new box might cost me more today, but save having to redo it again in 3-5 years. I live in Ontario, Canada and they aren't shy with the road salt.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Joppa, Maryland
I don't know if either way is better than the other, but maybe try the salvage yards or finding someone selling a complete bed and then have it painted (or maybe you'll find a color matched one if you're lucky). Could save you a bit of money.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: New Jersey
Welding on skins if done competently isn't a problem at all regarding rust. Just has to be done correctly, as would be the case with any body work.
For a DIY guy, welding on an entire bedside is probably easier as you can hide your welds easier long the floor line rather than on the side of the bed. If you're having a shop do this work, the a skin will probably be less costly.
For a DIY guy, welding on an entire bedside is probably easier as you can hide your welds easier long the floor line rather than on the side of the bed. If you're having a shop do this work, the a skin will probably be less costly.
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Junior User
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Thanks for the posts. I won't be doing the work myself. Not set up for it right now. Just worried that the heat from welding is going to to burn the galvinizing off the sheet metal between the inner and outer fender, and not sure how well that can be protected since it's pretty tight at the box rail.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
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Originally Posted by PSD4ME
Thanks for the posts. I won't be doing the work myself. Not set up for it right now. Just worried that the heat from welding is going to to burn the galvinizing off the sheet metal between the inner and outer fender, and not sure how well that can be protected since it's pretty tight at the box rail.
Repair the dent keeps all the weld's from having to be cut or drilled out ....
Got any Pics
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The factory usually spot welds panels, and that is the way to do the job properly. Also places like eastwood, and probably most autobody supply places have a weld through sealer that keeps the weld joint from rusting. As far as worrying about paint protection and if they can get paint in there, that is simple, just paint it in that area before the panel is installed. A very good product is "Zero Rust", I'm not sure how good the primer is that is on replacement panels, if it is from a foreign country then its probably junk. So stripping is in order. Others may know the answer to the quality of the primer.
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Junior User
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Ya but lets be realistic. $2500 for a repair that you created. You pay the first $500 up front called a deductable, then they jack your rates for the next 5-7 years becuase you had a claim and are "high risk". Insurance is great when some $%^hole plows into you and causes a pile of damage (this happened to me last winter on my snowmachine), but for self inflicted damage under $5000, It's cheaper in the long run to dig deep and fix it yourself. I own a few vehicles and just as many "toys", and insurance companies LOVE to jack your rates on all your insured vehicles once you have a claim and they can deem you "high risk" for a couple years.
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From: Central Coast, CA
Originally Posted by Action4478
It will loose its factory rust protection,,, weld through (crap ) primer & all it cant be duplicated ,,,
Repair the dent keeps all the weld's from having to be cut or drilled out ....
Got any Pics
Repair the dent keeps all the weld's from having to be cut or drilled out ....
Got any Pics
Pick a shop that has a good reputation and warranty, you get what you pay for. $2500 sounds right for a bedside. The part alone is probably $500-600 and the paint material is prob like $200-300. The body labor is going to be close to 12 hours and paint arround 6.
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Thanks GwizRC , thats the kind of info I was looking for. I was the one that said galvanized. I was a GM guy until this my first ford, and my GM trucks had factory galvanized sheet metal. I had lots of large stone chips on the hood and front fenders, some 1/4 around and they never rusted in 3 years. You could actually see the swirl like markings indicitive of galvanizing. Wasn't sure if Ford factory sheet metal is galvanized though, and judging by your response I guess not.
Thanks again, good to hear that my shops pricing is in line too.
Thanks again, good to hear that my shops pricing is in line too.
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