Ok, I know they are a sponser...But I'd like some feedback as to how well it works... Gotta do some rust treatment under the ol' girl we are fixing up, and I know how well "Rust Converter" works. However I'm trying to research up a better solution which really kicks the snot out of any rust on the body/frame. (painting an option over rust bullet?...Or not needed?)

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Okkkkkkkk I'll take this as a "Nope...they are a sponser but no one has ever used them" type of response.

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Should I plan on being the test subject then? LOL

 

Welcome to FTE & the Paint & Body section.

Please have some patience as a lot of the guys that post in this forum aren't on 24/7 like I am.

Also, if you do a search of this forum you will find many threads discussing Rust Bullet and other rust converters.

 

Have not used it. But its know if it's not sealed up to keep O2, H2O, from getting to it it will still rust out under the coating. I have found if you proper prep the surface and spray 2 coats of epoxy primer, then apply a top coat or 2K primmer if you will be sanding, works. If it's subjected to rocks kicking up to it, use a undercoat for added protection.

I know from industrial coatings on water tanks, it the prep and coatings is not applied to mfg specs your looking for trouble. We use a cold tar epoxy coatings, on most all tanks. Plus we used an anode system to cover the 2-3% holidays founds on large tanks. Inspections was done every 3-5 yrs.

 

Now that's what I'm talking about! We are planning on rust treating our frame when we pull the truck bed. And I was not sure about painting over it? Or if the stuff 'sealed' to the point no more coating was needed.

Thanks!

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You need to knock off the loose rust, and preferrably get off absolutely as much rust as possible, at least to a point where you have bare metal with some freckles. THEN, do the rust conversion, let it cure properly and coat it with Epoxy Primer. Epoxy Primer should NOT be put over any paint as it has very hot solvents.

By doing these three things; removing all rust/paint, treating rust and applying Epoxy Primer, you will have your very best chance of having a rust free frame for a long time. If it is just the frame, you can use Black Epoxy Primer and you're done. For any body parts, the Epoxy Primer will set it up for primer/surfacer for block sanding and then top coating.

Hope this helps,

 

Some users powder coat there frames, while other use products from Eastwood, and POR15. Unless you live where they use salt on the roads, it should fine without a coating. Here in TX my 68 frame only has surface rust, nothing extensive. Then there are section in the finder wells that look likes it brand new, rust free. They make impressed current system to protect frames and body panels. If design right these should work real good. Have used these systems in the field for 30+ yrs.

 

Sadly there seems to be a different reason Syracuse, NY has the nickname the Salt City. (used to be salt mining in the area I suppose) However their use of road salt? I had to wash down the 07 sprinter the company lets me use for work yesterday. I could have salted several driveways with the amount that came off.

Powder coating sounds like a decent option--I know some local supply companies sell the machines for a DIY project? Right now it's a job one to get the rust on the frame under control. It's pretty caked up in some spots--however I will give the early designs a great deal of credit. That's some pretty heavy duty steel used back in the day.

From the sounds of it--once we pull the bed off the ol' girl? Nail everything with the wire wheel (probably slap a few places with a small hammer to knock off any scale build up off).. Get as much of the old crap off the frame...wire wheel again.. (I do have a hand grinder--but that might cut into the usable metal to much). Get it down as much as possible...and then nail it with the Rust Bullet?

Now an epoxy primer.. That works well with the rust bullet, and should not have any problems? I do see the rust bullet has a self "etching" set of properties built in..Supposed to etch into the metal enough to kill off any spots of rust in the areas below the surface. Basically do the metal prep work...rust bullet as per instructions..and then top it off with epoxy primer? We do plan on painting the frame with several coats in an attempt to seal off the metal as best we can to prevent any more rust....(clear coat afterwards?)

We are planning on ordering in supplies in the next few weeks for the next phase of the project. Due to not having a heated garage to work in for a while? The more supplies I can get on hand--the easier it will be to get things rolling fast and taken care of. (leave any extra $$ in the truck account? And it will slowly vanish for other non-truck related things....so we have to be extra 'good') Thankfully the supplies will be stored in the heated garage---which is currently used as a dog-kennel while my sister tries to locate a place to live in upstate/central NY.

Some of the rust and scale reminds me of the probe we had to sell off...With a huge difference. The probe wound up having a couple of chunks of scale come off--and the frame crumbled in a large spot. With this truck? Chunk of scale came off while working on the fuel lines..I had to drill a set of holes for a electric fuel pump..LOL.. Still had plenty of decent steel under all that crap. The newer cars? Seem to be very poorly made with cheap metal--to thin and recycled several times over.

Thanks for the input so far! Depending on weather conditions we might just pull the truck bed while it's outside...The under side of that bed is roached--But the sides are still in fair shape. Just in case the bed crumbles into about 50 lbs of rust? At least it will have left it outside for an easier cleanup.

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Rust bullet works best on bare metal, you can paint right over the rust. Rust Bullet is a two step process, meaning the first coat should go on thick enough to fill all of the pits of the surface, let set up, and then apply a second coat to seal the first coat. After the second coat is applied and set up it can then be top coated with any paint. Done.

I would go back and read the Rust Bullet website some more, there are some important things to pay attention to. For instance rust bullet should not be in contact with any type of latex product, you should be very careful not to get any water or sweat in the rust bullet and temperature is a big deal for cure time and correct curing.

I am actually in the middle of doing the same thing, i will be using Rust Bullet also, top coat will be Rust Bullet Black Shell. I've done a lot of home work and i feel this is the best affordable method for rust control.

Just my .02cents.

Ps. My opinion is that if you are planning on sanding down the frame to perfection, painting and clearcoating you'll be wasting a bunch of time...I have lived in the southern tier of NY and i know how bad the salt is, your frame will be pitted terribly probably. Use a rust encapsulating paint such as Rust Bullet or Eastwoods and call it good enough.

Good luck keep us posted and post some pictures.

 

I agree with Duke on the RustBullet... I just treated my oil pan and from what I've read and the independent testing thats been done vs other rust treatments, I felt that Rust Bullet was my best option for a job that had to be done right the first time (if my pan rusts through I've got to pull the engine to replace).

I'm not saying that POR15 or other treatments are not effective, but Rust Bullet beat them all in the tests.

 

An oil pan test is not really a good test. I have Krylon on them and have not had any rust in 10 yrs.

All it gets down to is prep, if you don't do at right on any of them they will fail.

 

blue is RIGHT ON! No matter if you are spraying on Rattle Can or the most expensive bc/cc system in the world, the prep is EVERYTHING. This is not to, in any way, imply that you can get a better finish with Rattle Can stuff simply by prepping it right, but you MUST prep right to allow the system that you are using to provide it's best results.

My $0.02,

 

That is new news to me.... i've always used epoxy primer over paint... need to get the skinny on this fer sure!

 

All of the epoxy primers I have used, say for bare metal.

 

I have used rust bullet several times and have made the following observations:

1. It is a good product and does its job second to none IF it is applied properly.

2. Proper surface prep is key. If there is dirt or scale, it MUST come off. If you are painting a body panel, you need to removed the paint beyoned the rusted part into the non rusted area and feather the edge, then apply the rust bullet.

3. Proper mil thickness is also critical. When useing spray equipment to apply RB, it looks pretty real quick, but it may not be thick enough. RB needs two full coats to be effective.

4. Topcoating is a good idea as well. Doesn't have to be a fancy topcoat, but you DO need to topcoat. I use flat black rattle can for automotive chassis and it seems to do the trick nicely.

Keep these things in mind and it will work well. Disregard them, and you will be dissapointed. It says all this stuff on their website, but from firsthand experience I can stress how important it is.