Hi,

I'm replacing the exhaust mainifold studs and I need some help. I've read that there is an updated replacement set that is stainless steel. When I went to the dealer to get the replacements they knew nothing of an update and gave me part#N811313-S431. These studs are quite magnetic so I assume they are steel and not stainless. Is this the correct part #? The parts person claimed it's the only number listed. The nuts where steel also.

I've also got the studs for the Y pipe. Those are stainless but the nuts are steel. Is this correct?

Also, can someone tell me the torque numbers for this repair?

Thank you.

My Truck: 2002 F250 CC V10 4wd

 

Hi and welcome to the forum

A google search will show that some stainless steels are magnetic.
The part numbers may have been changed up but TSB 05-5-4 says the studs are W703902-S403 and the nuts are W701706-S2.
I can't imagine a dealer not having the right ones. Where I work we replace lots of them.

 

bweaver

The parts counter person who waited on you was and is ignorant and uninformed... this is a well known problem with several TSBs over the 99 to present years

Take those studs back and insist that a master tech form their shop get you hooked up with the correct studs and nuts if those are not it. Or get a refund and find a competent dealer parts house...

Mild rant .... use the resources here and other places like the MotorCraft tech site and when you go to a Ford dealer for any thing...know exactly what the issue is, what TSBs and part numbers are... These days, the typical parts counter guy/gal can not possibly know all the different things.

I have noticed that there is no good cross reference in their computer database to list all the "in lieu of" or "replace with" parts.. The parts guy has to do several steps most of the time.... I always stop off at the service desk and get a report run against my VIN and it usually has the TSB and Part numbers listed.... but it too, is usually incomplete because many of Fords TSB are "general", "internal only" or not properly identified

And be advised...most of the ASE and Ford Master Techs I know are real pissed about this too! The dealers have to "subscribe" to tech info from MotorCraft and it sucks when you are paying for factory data and it is wrong

OK end of rant

bweaver I hope the re-stud goes well and is the last time you every have to do it...

Welcome to the V10 forum, home of the BSEG!

Let us know how it goes and ask any questions you want... quite a few of us in here with the "been there done that" Tee Shirt

 

Certain types of stainless ARE magnetic.

If I remember correctly, someone else asked about this in the SD forum I think, but the studs were NOT magnetic, and the nuts were. Someone else came up with a valid reason to use these two different types of stainless steel in the same application.

However, your studs appear to be wrong. Were these "in-stock" or did you have to order them?

 

Thanks for the replies and help. These studs look (color) just like the clean ends I've pulled out. The Y pipe studs, which are darker in color are definatly stainless.

The dealer had 3 in stock and had to order the rest.

This is a nasty job but I'm picking away at it. Fortunatly, I also have a second car so tying up the truck is not a problem. I just do a little until I get sick of it and hit it again later when I'm in a better mood. Most of the studs are coming out but unfortunatly one was broken off about 1/8" into the head and will have to be drilled.

Can someone tell me what to torque the new nuts to when I put this thing back together?

Thanks.

 

I feel your pain as to the bolts snapping off in the heads. I'm in the middle of installing a set of the Banks headers and unfortunately I snapped two of the studs on the drivers side off in the head {first and last ones on the top of the bank}. Spent most of the day trying to drill and easy out but didn't have much success so I just drilled them stepping up in size in drill bits and then re tapping. Talk about a real pain in the ****!!!! The penny pinchers, engineers or whoever is reaponsible for the decision to put mild steel studs/nuts in an aluminum head should be flogged and dragged down the road and then repeat. I figured that I'd be finished with the job by now but, I haven't even started the passenger side yet. Anyone with some tips on the passenger side ? I think on that side I'm gonna remove the shock tower and shock along with the fender liner. That'll give even more access to work. I hope all goes well on this side. Hope for no snapped studs.

Cleve

 

Here's an update to the banks headers install. I finally got them along with a Gibson extreme dual exhaust system put on the truck. The headers really weren't too bad to install. Taking the stock manifolds off were the killer, friggin broken studs. Anyways I had to drill out a total off 4 studs, two on each side. After that the job went really smooth. A little tip for anyone doing a header install in the future. TAKE OUT THE SHOCK TOWERS !!! It'll make the job much easier, opens up tons of room for hands and forearms. The Gibson system is very quiet compared to the aeroturbine and Stan's y-pipe set-up that I had on before. That set-up actually got annoying at times. Mainly on a cold engine and excellerating. Now I just have to get used to the quietness of the new set-up. It's not much louder than stock, if any. But, for me that's a good thing. It does wake on excelleration though. By thew way, no flutter. The truck does feel a good bit stronger. It gains speed with a lot less effort now and even seems to feel stronger from a standstill. All and all I'm very pleased with the results. Now we'll have to see if it helps the mileage any.



Cleve

 

Thanks for the install tips and header report

 

bweaver - did you ever find the correct part number for those stainless manifold studs? and if you did, what is it?

 

Fredvon4 - What is "TSB"? (your post 9-30-2006 to bweaver)

 

Technical Service Bulletin is what TSB stands for.

 

RVFOG -
I don't remember the correct part number but the color difference between the old and new is obvious. The correct ones are copper color and non magnetic.

 

Goodness! I hope this doesn't happen on the van. That job has got to be almost impossible to perform on the E-series.

I know the telltale signs when a stud has broken, but what age/mileage are most folks seeing this occur?

Dave

 

Dave, I just had one rust way on my SD after 8 winters and 75,000 miles on her. Next summer I am replacing all of them when I replace my head gaskets which are starting to leak a little oil right now.

 

guys WAKE UP post number 2 here racerguy the super modertator is a ford dealer tech he gave you the tsb number and part numbers for the correct studs and nuts.