I've got a 99 F250SD 2WD manual (5sp) with the V-10. It has been using water for some time and I think when I tear it down, I'm going to find it is worse than just a head gasket (I suspect a cracked head or block). If I'm going to replace the engine, how hard is it to install the newer 3V engine? What is needed beyond the engine? Will my 5sp trans bolt right up?

Does Ford sell crate engines like Chevy? Where is the best place to buy a crate engine or rebuilt engine?

 

The 3-valver uses the fly-by-wire throttle setup, and the PCM is VERY integrated into the rest of the truck.

You'd need the ABS module, GEM, and basically the entire cab off the 3-valver to make it all work.

The 2-valve ABS module, GEM and airbag stuff will not work with the 3-valver PCM.

And vice-versa.

We've discussed this MANY TIMES in this forum, and the consensus has always been "FORGET IT".

But there's bound to be someone who will try it

If you have the money go for it. On the other hand, you could sell the '99 and buy an '05 for what you're going to spend on upgrading.

 

The swap is actually pretty easy: you drive to the dealer lot, point out the replacement you want to buy, and toss them the keys to your old one...

 

We've discussed this MANY TIMES in this forum, and the consensus has always been "FORGET IT".

Sorry, I probably should have tried a search first. Thanks for the info though!

 

that is awsome............that's even eisier than taking the gas cap off, drving the old one off, and driving a new one up behind it!

 

No problem! You won't hear "you should do a search first" from me, unless there's a huge technical aspect to the topic.

In this case, I don't mind reminding everyone that the swap is not something you can do in a weekend

So, who's going to be the guinea pig and try it?

 

As to the second part of the question, does Ford sell "crate engines" or is there a reputable engine supply company people recommend for the V10. Mine may be as simple as a head gasket but I want to be ready for the worst when I get in there.

 

samdog

You motor is totally rebuildable if you did not physically break the crank or the block

Using water in these designes does not usually mean a cracked head or block like yester year... it is most likely a gasket.

You don't say the mileage so perhaps a simple top end freshing is all she needs.

Worst case rebuild is about same price, with labor, of a "crate motor"

I have seen prices from under a 1000 to well over 5000 dollars... quite a few were sold last year as wrecked truck pulls milage unknown in the 1400 dollar range

A quick Google or Ask dot com search I found several reputable rebuild companies that have the 99-05 6.8L "crate" complete motor in the 4500 dollar range

http://www.rhinoengines.com/fordcrateengineslist.htm

 

Very good link, thank you. My symptoms are a little weird in that it has all the symptoms of a head gasket (exhuast in the coolant, using water etc) but it never overheats, compression looks great, and it seems to stop or nearly stop losing water once it is hot. My thought is that a head is cracked and once the head is hot, the crack nearly seals up. It definitely uses a lot more water if you use the truck for short trips around town and much less on extended trips. I'm still towing my 8,000 LB trailer with it. I just towed 2000 miles recently but I know I'm on borrowed time. I carry around about 6 gallons of water everywhere I go.

The truck has either 106,000 or 200K+ depending on what you believe. I bought it cheap enough that I wasn't worried about it and even if I have to replace the engine, I'll still have less than what it is worth invested and basically have a brand new truck. The title and Carfax say the mileage is accurate but there was a period of 3 years during the truck's last ownership that I suspect a lot more miles were put on than indicated.

My thought process is that I'm going to go ahead and pull the engine this winter and see what I've got. If it is just a head gasket, maybe I'll do a top end rebuild or maybe just the gasket. It needs a clutch too as the throwout bearing is making a lot of noise so I'll do that while it is out. I know I can do the heads in the truck but it looks like such a PITA that I think it would be easier to pull the engine. I don't think my back can take leaning over those fenders the whole time.

 

The folks who do it all the time have a easier time just pulling the cab off the frame and motor

I think flatratetech dot com has the whole procedure posted

 

Think optimistically!

Rather than a crack, it could just be loose head bolts. As the heads heat, they expand and tighten against the gasket forming a proper seal.

Only way to know for sure is to disassemble.

 

I hope you are right!

 

If you really were determined to do a swap from a 2 valve v10 to a 3 valve v10, here is what I suggest. What you really need is a donor truck that has a salvage title(meaning for parts only) such as a roll over that has been totalled out with a conplete running v10 3 valve drivetrain. start swapping everything including underhood wiring harness and i believe the dash harness and you are in like flint. any other way would be cost prohibitive. you would have to swap whole assemblys.

 

ha....that was good!

 

Could the 1999 V-10 computer run the newer 3v V-10? Are the sensor plugs similar between the two? How much of the additional hp and torque of the 3v is from the new computer and operating system, CAM or what ever it is called? Could a performance throttle body do the job of the fly-by-wire? I prefer the mechanical linkage to the throttle body!!