'00 Ranger takes forever to start
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New User
Joined: Aug 2004
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'00 Ranger takes forever to start
I have a 2000 Ranger, 2wd, standard transmission.
- 2 Days ago, I hop in to the truck for an errand, turn key, vroooom. but THEN it kept *going* vrooom.. over and over and over like I were stomping the gas over and over, yet my foot was barely on the pedal and not moving. It took me about 10 minutes to get that rough ROUGH start to settle down, once I did it was perfectly sweet smooth and responsive.
- Ok maybe bad gas..
- so I stopped on way home from errand and got some 97 octane and threw in some dry gas. nah, that didn't do diddly. hrm.
- Stopped at a Monro dealer since he was nearby, and he mentioned that it sounded to him like throttle controller, fuel filter, and/or just need a thorough engine cleaning (the internal kind that cleans the gunk out).
- My husband is just not into cars enough to know what in the world is going on, so anyone have any suggestions or clues? I'm scared i'm starting to hurt the engine with all that constant restarting, not to mention irking my neighbors!
Any input would be welcome
thanks
- 2 Days ago, I hop in to the truck for an errand, turn key, vroooom. but THEN it kept *going* vrooom.. over and over and over like I were stomping the gas over and over, yet my foot was barely on the pedal and not moving. It took me about 10 minutes to get that rough ROUGH start to settle down, once I did it was perfectly sweet smooth and responsive.
- Ok maybe bad gas..
- so I stopped on way home from errand and got some 97 octane and threw in some dry gas. nah, that didn't do diddly. hrm.
- Stopped at a Monro dealer since he was nearby, and he mentioned that it sounded to him like throttle controller, fuel filter, and/or just need a thorough engine cleaning (the internal kind that cleans the gunk out).
- My husband is just not into cars enough to know what in the world is going on, so anyone have any suggestions or clues? I'm scared i'm starting to hurt the engine with all that constant restarting, not to mention irking my neighbors!
Any input would be welcome
thanks
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Joined: Aug 2004
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I have a '98 Mazda B2500 that is doing the same thing. I am assuming that the starting issue goes away after the truck has warmed up.
In fact there are a number of posts on this board regarding similar issues.
Most of the responses say that it is either the Air Idle Control Sensor (IAC) or the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor. I am not too sure how the IAC
functions, but the ECT is used to "measure" the temperature of the engine and adjust the fuel mixture accordingly.
The standard response in the forums has been to check if the engine's computer is throwing any codes. That should help with the diagnosis.
My question to other members of the forums is will the check engine light be on if either of these two sensors are not working properly? Because I have the above issues but my CEL has not come on.
In fact there are a number of posts on this board regarding similar issues.
Most of the responses say that it is either the Air Idle Control Sensor (IAC) or the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor. I am not too sure how the IAC
functions, but the ECT is used to "measure" the temperature of the engine and adjust the fuel mixture accordingly.
The standard response in the forums has been to check if the engine's computer is throwing any codes. That should help with the diagnosis.
My question to other members of the forums is will the check engine light be on if either of these two sensors are not working properly? Because I have the above issues but my CEL has not come on.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Welcome to FTE JPryll
I too would suggest having the computer trouble codes pulled at your favorite autoparts store, most will do it at no charge, like AdvanceAuto or AutoZone, ect ect.
Post the codes here & we'll try to ascertain from them, what the root cause or your problem is.
The two items listed by Tortoise are common problem ones, maybe even a fuel pressue regulator, so you can see several things come to mind. Any stored computer codes can help zero in on the faulty part or system.
Would also be helpful if you would list the mileage, year, model & engine you have.
I too would suggest having the computer trouble codes pulled at your favorite autoparts store, most will do it at no charge, like AdvanceAuto or AutoZone, ect ect.
Post the codes here & we'll try to ascertain from them, what the root cause or your problem is.
The two items listed by Tortoise are common problem ones, maybe even a fuel pressue regulator, so you can see several things come to mind. Any stored computer codes can help zero in on the faulty part or system.
Would also be helpful if you would list the mileage, year, model & engine you have.
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well I just got back from Ford and they say:
"63218 verified rough running. EEC test P0113 IAT pin point test verified. Mass Air Flow bad aftermarket part that appears to be new already. Ford doesn't make MAF for this truck anymore."
Now, we'd just replaced the MAF within the past 6 weeks and I'm kinda ticked it's bad already. I'm hoping it IS the issue though because at least then we'll have resolution to the problem. So, for 87.87 I found this out, yippee. Shoulda gone to Auto-Zone after all!
Oh and to respond: it's a 2000 ford ranger XLT extended cab, 63k miles, not sure on engine, I believe 2.3L? My car knowledge only goes so far! *grin*
"63218 verified rough running. EEC test P0113 IAT pin point test verified. Mass Air Flow bad aftermarket part that appears to be new already. Ford doesn't make MAF for this truck anymore."
Now, we'd just replaced the MAF within the past 6 weeks and I'm kinda ticked it's bad already. I'm hoping it IS the issue though because at least then we'll have resolution to the problem. So, for 87.87 I found this out, yippee. Shoulda gone to Auto-Zone after all!
Oh and to respond: it's a 2000 ford ranger XLT extended cab, 63k miles, not sure on engine, I believe 2.3L? My car knowledge only goes so far! *grin*
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Well JPryll I hope you saved your reciept for that MAF, it should have some kind of warranty on it.
If you replaced it yourself, you should be able to get a new one. If you had it done elsewhere, they should warranty their work & parts.
The MAF could just be dirty & need cleaning. I'd try that before buying a new one, if it comes to that.
There is a technical stickey at the top of this forums main page, in which is listed how to clean this part, if youall want to attempt it.
Let us know how this turns out.
If you replaced it yourself, you should be able to get a new one. If you had it done elsewhere, they should warranty their work & parts.
The MAF could just be dirty & need cleaning. I'd try that before buying a new one, if it comes to that.
There is a technical stickey at the top of this forums main page, in which is listed how to clean this part, if youall want to attempt it.
Let us know how this turns out.
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well to close this particular saga, we went to AutoZone, dropped the old MAF on the counter along with the receipt dated 7/10 and they replaced it free, we put the new one in and voila, all issues gone, truck runs smooth as glass. Now to figure out why a barely 1-month old MAF died on us. hrm!
Thanks so much for the advice and support, that helps a lot I'm going to be posting another topic about our a/c and what it's been doing.. yay
Thanks so much for the advice and support, that helps a lot
I'm going to be posting another topic about our a/c and what it's been doing.. yay
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Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
ALLRIGHT JPryll, good to hear, makes you feel good when you fix one doesn't it.
Yup, too bad you didn't stop by Autozone first, could have saved that $87.87.
Even so, it was less expensive than having the dealer or somone else do it.
Thanx for the feed back.
Yup, too bad you didn't stop by Autozone first, could have saved that $87.87.
Even so, it was less expensive than having the dealer or somone else do it.
Thanx for the feed back.
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