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I know it's been done before but here's my version.
Notes:
Use brass fittings into the head, No Aluminum. Less corrosion and just better.
I used 2 individual fittings on the left head as shown below. but a street L may work. Goal is to keep line as close to the plenum as possible for Turbo charge pipe clearance,
Pay attention to clearances near the right head fittings. (see detail) Goal is to keep it close to the head and keep it away from hot side of turbo.
Pay attention to hoses rubbing on pedestal. Might have to isolate with rubber hose.
Probably do it for $50
Oh, I thought that was a found image from online...I have done that before
You will love efuel, more power and no leaks
Been running E-Fuel for about a year. Best mod to date. Just saw so many hack jobs out there, I thought I'd post a pic.
Question:
Putting sumps in the tank next. Just the feed line and will return through OEM connection,
On the fence about running 8AN from the sump to the selector but can't find any AN connections to the Ford Push locks on the valve. PTFE and hose clamps don't mix well. 6AN will also be good enough and I have a ****load here.
What do people do with the old feed line into the tank? Just jam a bolt in the hose and clamp it off ?
On the fence about running 8AN from the sump to the selector but can't find any AN connections to the Ford Push locks on the valve.
I used those hardline compression adapters; 3/8" on send and 5/16" on return. I had to replace my hose entirely because the push lock was practically welded on. Personally, if I had the time and the right setup I would have just flared the sending unit connections and called it a day.
Please update on turbo pedestal fitment when you're done. My OEM lines don't leak currently (or at least they leak slower than my HPOP) but they're pretty severely glazed so I have that slated for replacement.
I ran those compression fittings from the hardlines up to the engine bay, they work nice but I'm trying to reduce vacuum on the input side of the pump. Didn't put a vacuum gauge on it but I think the pump is cavitating causing air or turbulence because I can hear air running through the pump intermittently. The fuel pressure gauge is pretty responsive and doesn't show a drop but the needle twitches between 59-61 whenever I hear that sound. New selector valve fittings, no leaks.
Before I go cutting into the tank, I'll ghetto up a 5gal bucket of fuel and suck that out and try to find out where the problem is,.
As for the fuel lines under the valley, I must have lucked out because the routing is perfect and no hoses near anything hot or touching the pedestal. If you do yours, you should run them exactly as shown. Better lucky than good I say,
Below is a pic of the new turbo install. You can't see **** as far of the fuel lines cause they're buried but it was so much work I had to post a pic. It's crazy how some people can do this jobs regularly. Took me 2 weeks
I appreciate the photos. I was struggling enough with the backside of my fuel system at the time that I didn't want to push my luck messing with the front end too much.
I get little bubble sounds occasionally when I first start up, but I haven't heard any on a hot engine. My pump is also mounted a lot higher than most setups (see my thread for photos). I think its just takes a bit to purge all the air after startup, especially because it doesn't have the hydraulic advantage of the bowl sitting there.
If you do your rear fuel lines, I recommend 8AN line and 3/8" ID hose. I did 6AN aluminum and wish I did 8AN after comparing the ID between 6AN aluminum and stock stainless. Another thing for me to get to eventually.
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