1996 Ford F53 7.5L crank no start HELP/ADVISE needed!!! PLEASE AND THANK YOU.
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4wd Low
Joined: Nov 2025
Posts: 14
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1996 Ford F53 7.5L crank no start HELP/ADVISE needed!!! PLEASE AND THANK YOU.
1996 Ford F53 7.5L started and ran for about 3-4 minutes before dying, and then no check engine light. Then the following notes:
PCM was replaced, check engine light returned, but still crank no start
Distributor replaced due to pip problem, but still no spark unless spout removed. It seems to hit/start with starter fluid with spout removed.
Fuel pump disconnected and checked directly with external power source and works
Fuel pump wires repaired while tank dropped
Only 5.5V going into and coming out of fuel pump connector
Fuel pump runs perfectly installed by using test port trick
Battery is charged 100%, but no load test done
Fuses checked good with continuity
Relays checked good with continuity
Ignition switch is not excessively loose, and key is not stuck, etc.
PCM relay and Fuel Pump relay #30 wire slot is 13.1V with key off (relay out of slot)
PCM relay is 12.2V on #86 wire slot with key on (relay out of slot)
Fuel Pump relay is 3.3V on #86 wire slot with key on (relay out of slot)
PCM relay drops to 9.3V with #30(yellow) and #87(solid red) wire slot - key on - (relay out of slot)
PCM relay is 0.0 continuity with #85 and #86(red with blue stripe) wire slot - key on - (relay out of slot).......there is a continuous beep on the other setting
Fuel Pump drops to 10.7V with #30(yellow) and #87(green/yellow stripe) - key on - (relay out of slot)
Fuel Pump relay fluctuates between 43 and 46 with #85 and #86(solid red) - key on - (relay out of slot).......there is no beep and show OL on the other setting
Inertia Switch bench tested good
Inertia Switch was 1.7V at the connector wire backprobing using green screw for ground
ANL 178 fusible link fluctuates between 0.3 and 0.6 and beeps on the other setting
Diode tested good per battery shop and cleaned and secure in slot
PCM 12.2V on #86 key off
Fuel Pump 12.5V on #86 key off
No unreasonable amount of green corrosion behind fuse box
No broken wires visible or stretched out pins
I have read and studied before coming for help. Somebody? Anybody? PLEASE give this gal some advise other than find the nearest junk yard. Thank you greatly in advance.
PCM was replaced, check engine light returned, but still crank no start
Distributor replaced due to pip problem, but still no spark unless spout removed. It seems to hit/start with starter fluid with spout removed.
Fuel pump disconnected and checked directly with external power source and works
Fuel pump wires repaired while tank dropped
Only 5.5V going into and coming out of fuel pump connector
Fuel pump runs perfectly installed by using test port trick
Battery is charged 100%, but no load test done
Fuses checked good with continuity
Relays checked good with continuity
Ignition switch is not excessively loose, and key is not stuck, etc.
PCM relay and Fuel Pump relay #30 wire slot is 13.1V with key off (relay out of slot)
PCM relay is 12.2V on #86 wire slot with key on (relay out of slot)
Fuel Pump relay is 3.3V on #86 wire slot with key on (relay out of slot)
PCM relay drops to 9.3V with #30(yellow) and #87(solid red) wire slot - key on - (relay out of slot)
PCM relay is 0.0 continuity with #85 and #86(red with blue stripe) wire slot - key on - (relay out of slot).......there is a continuous beep on the other setting
Fuel Pump drops to 10.7V with #30(yellow) and #87(green/yellow stripe) - key on - (relay out of slot)
Fuel Pump relay fluctuates between 43 and 46 with #85 and #86(solid red) - key on - (relay out of slot).......there is no beep and show OL on the other setting
Inertia Switch bench tested good
Inertia Switch was 1.7V at the connector wire backprobing using green screw for ground
ANL 178 fusible link fluctuates between 0.3 and 0.6 and beeps on the other setting
Diode tested good per battery shop and cleaned and secure in slot
PCM 12.2V on #86 key off
Fuel Pump 12.5V on #86 key off
No unreasonable amount of green corrosion behind fuse box
No broken wires visible or stretched out pins
I have read and studied before coming for help. Somebody? Anybody? PLEASE give this gal some advise other than find the nearest junk yard. Thank you greatly in advance.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 480
From: Kemptville, ON,
Do you have spark, tested at the plug?. Seems like a computer gave out on you.
could also check in the section of this forum that has the 1996 trucks. There are some smart guys there.
could also check in the section of this forum that has the 1996 trucks. There are some smart guys there.
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Nov 2025
Posts: 14
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The PCM (computer) was the start of the problem and then replaced. I used a spark tester to determine spark at both the coil and top of the distributor. I did find and post in Ford truck section as suggested. Any further help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your response.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 480
From: Kemptville, ON,
This is getting interesting. Making sure I understand,
you have spark at the plugs?
you have fuel getting to the fuel rail/carb?
wondering if the new pcm is no good. Or wondering if the timing belt/chain has jumped a tooth.
Straight up, I'm not a mechanic and not very familiar with these motors at all.
you have spark at the plugs?
you have fuel getting to the fuel rail/carb?
wondering if the new pcm is no good. Or wondering if the timing belt/chain has jumped a tooth.
Straight up, I'm not a mechanic and not very familiar with these motors at all.
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Nov 2025
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
I wonder if the new PCM is no good too. But, of course, I might need to explain why especially since the check engine light does come on unlike before.
I am not getting fuel or pressure. I used starter fluid thus far.
I am not getting fuel or pressure. I used starter fluid thus far.
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