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2000 Expedition EB 5.4 4x4 231k
Issue began as the vehicle would stall when coming to a stop or shifting into gear. Sometimes it would bog down and then die and sometimes it was like you flipped a switch. it has now began doing that less often, but in order to take off from a stop I have to rev to 3k RPM to get it to "engage", then as long as I'm moving it is perfectly fine, just when leaving from a complete stop in either forward or reverse. I've been periodically adding fluid as it does leak some from the cooler lines I believe, but it was right in the middle of the hot when I was doing my initial diagnosis. I watched the pressures on forscan but they seemed somewhat erratic or slow to respond. Unsure if that PID is an accurate source of line pressure, but the values I did get were much lower than expected. No codes at all related to drive train.
Could the cooler bypass being stuck open cause low line pressure?
Could it be something that could be fixed without pulling the transmission?
Does a 4r100 out of a 2000 F-350 with a 5.4 have any differences that would prevent it from working in this application?
There is no PID that displays line pressure. The PCM does not know line pressure, it only knows what it commands. There is no pressure feedback.
A failed bypass will not affect line pressure. All it does is bypass the cooler, so the only thing a failed bypass can cause is elevated transmission temperatures.
It could be something that can be fixed without pulling the trans. Low line pressure is usually the cause of these problems. Low line pressure can be caused by low fluid, a loose or missing internal filter, a bad EPC solenoid, stuck main regualtor valve, internal leaks, or a worn out pump. Some of those can be corrected with the trans in the vehicle.
A trans from a 2000 F-350 with a 5.4 would be identical if it is also a 4x4. If it is a 4x2 you would need to swap the output shaft to make it work. To change the output shaft you need to take EVERYTHING out of the trans, put the 4x4 shaft in, and reassemble the entire transmission.
i have to go with mark plus add that it sure sounds like the lockup clutch in the converter is staying engaged
i would find a good nearby trans shop and have it properly checked out , go from there
There were no codes related to engine or transmission, just some body ones (lighting, reverse sensors, low battery related ones from when I let it sit too long and it drained)
I cleared them when I last hooked up when I first was looking at the problem. I will check again tonight when I get off work and see if it is the same.
I've talked to the 2 transmission shops in the area that I trust, neither of them seemed particularly interested in doing much short of a full rebuild or replacement. The cheapest option was $2500. So I'll likely be fixing myself or swapping in a used one so I can rebuild this one later on my own time.
For now I think I'll do some additional data logging until the weather breaks and I can do proper pressure tests and then get the pan pulled. I also need to check the harness but typically wouldn't an electrical issue throw a code? I know when the harness got a little melted on a 99 f150 I had the codes were aplenty.
Could the solenoid pack have gotten gummed up or wore in such a fashion to cause a sticking tcc sometimes and epc issues that require high rpms to get past initially?
Confirmed no codes. I pulled some data on forscan, not sure if particularly useful. I did notice i couldn't get it to stall out when coming to a stop anymore, it seems like its back to working normal on the stop, just the takeoff issues.
First set is 10 seconds from stop going up to highway speed as i would normally drive. All is in drive and it is starting in 1st gear. Later I did try some takeoffs in 2. It behaved the same, just bogged more when it finally did "grab" and accelerated slower as expected.
Engine RPM and EPC psi
Engine RPM and Vehicle Speed
Engine RPM vs slip
This is 1 minute of stopping and going low speed in a parking lot. Same data as above.
My plan is to pull the pan and check filter and fluid quality when the storm passes.
The weather finally warmed enough to work on it. I drained and pulled the pan. When I dropped the pan the filter was not attached and came down with the pan. I'm hoping that's my problem. I figure it's worth it to grab a new filter, gasket, and fluid and try it at least before spending a couple thousand...
How much force or impact would it take to dislodge the filter? I drive vehicle abusively on rough roads, is there anything i need to do to prevent this in the future if this is my main problem.
However I've included some pictures of the magnet and fluid, does this look like an excessive amount of metal for 230k miles or to be expected?
The metal on magnet has been smeared up with finger so depth could be seen.
I know the color is definitely darker than desired. I'm really just hoping I can get it to behave long enough to get out of salt on the road season. I dont want to drive my f250 in salt and the vic is a non starter in slick conditions.
Getting it all put back together the way it is supposed to be seems to have alleviated the symptoms. Hopefully it will last the rest of winter now. May pick up a used 4r100 I can go ahead and rebuild over time and have waiting as a spare.
A new cv shaft and it will be back on the road. (Driver cv started clunking while doing transmission diagnosis, found a tore boot and all grease evacuated all over everything)
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