I recently bought a 1963 F600 with a 292 Y-Block in it. (Here is the first post on it https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rb-weight.html)
When driving it (the truck is empty by the way) and the truck gets under a load (let’s say going up an incline) it makes a popping noise whenever I try to give it more throttle and then I loose engine power. Going on flat land it doesn’t have much of a problem accelerating (as long as I ease the throttle up) and I can go 45-50 mph. But going up hills or punching the throttle, I just loose power and it starts popping. However I can drive up just about any hill in 1st gear no problem, but I can’t drive everywhere in 1st gear! haha. I’ve replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, condenser, and fuel filter. And I also adjusted the timing (… not 100% sure if I did that correctly, adjusted back to 0 when at an idle). Though it is still having this problem. I’m not sure what else I can adjust or replace. I haven’t touched the carburetor yet so maybe there is something with that? It starts very easy and idles good, so I’m not sure if it would be the carburetor.
I bought this truck to haul water to my cows and I live in the foothills, so it’s going to have to pull up hills with a load of water.
Please let me know if you have any ideas on what could be the issue. Thanks!!

 

I've twice had a car suffer a sudden wiped exhaust cam lobe, which meant the exhaust valve on that cylinder just did not open, so it did not exhaust. When just steady light throttle cruise or coast, almost not noticeable, like almost normal. When accelerating, the further I stepped into the throttle, the greater the "pop back" or spit through the carburetor, thus diluting the whole intake mix, and the less power the other 7 produced. One was a '79 305 Malibu, one was a '80 360 Plymouth police car 360 ... both were stock, OEM cams. The Malibu got a Melling stock cam, and my sister drove it a few years afterwards. The Plymouth got a hotter cam, but then it blowed while working radar a week later.

 

Ignition misfire. Under load the spark can't jump the spark plug gap and finds lesser path of resistance. I'd bet plug wires

spray plug wires with water must and drive to see if it's worse. I'm betting it will be. I've also sprayed water on wires at night to see the spark light show from bad plug wires

 

Try checking for the light show without water. If there is arcing from plug wires, it shouldn't need water. I suggest this because I had a Saturn that I ruined two coil packs and a set of silicone wires. They were dusty.

 

There are some good ideas above. I've seen this problem a lot back in the days when I first started turning wrenches. So here's my suggestion, swap in a known good or new coil and I'll bet it fixes your problems.

 

The previous suggestions sound like very good advise. So, I thought I would go down another road... I was wondering why you set the timing to zero at idle. It should be 6 degrees BTDC at 500 rpm. And since we are talking about timing, I do wonder if you should check the dampener for slip against TDC given the age of the engine. I believe all of the aforementioned things to check are either no cost or very little cost involved. Good luck and hope this helps.

 

Well I swapped out the old coil (which looked to be near to, if not, original) with a new coil, and the problem still persists.
I need to go get my timing light and check (and possible adjust) the timing to what you guys recommend.
I’d like to note that when I replaced the spark plugs the old plugs seemed kind of wet/oily. So I’m not sure if it’s running too rich? And if so how to find out/adjust that?

 

I don't see where you replaced the points. That is a classic symptom of burnt points. Been there myself, and chased it for a while. Also, make sure you are only getting 6 volts to the points with the switch in the run position, and 12 volts in the start position.

Make sure the solenoid is a 4 post, and it's hooked up correctly, so as the 12 volt wire to the points during starting is on the same side as the wire going to the starter.

My old '55 had been changed to 12 volt, and they used the old 3 pole 6 volt solenoid and full 12 volt wiring. It would burn points every 1k miles or so, and start popping under load just like yours does. After making things right, I never had problems again.

 

Did you use a coil with an internal resister or do you have a resister in the feed wire to the coil?
Just wondering.

 

I myself always use internal resistor coil.

 

Would you elaborate more on the "misfire" causes please ?

The reason I ask is because i had a condition with my '77 Ford 300 six. The pickup spent six years on the pacific coast.
A few years after moving back to arid country, and after sitting for several months, I had sever popping thru the carb and backfire thru the exhaust on any attempt to move the pickup forward.
I chased my tail for days and part days and finally had the pickup hauled to the local Earl's Auto Electric.
When I went in to pick up my pickup, the mech said my Voltage Regulator was the cuoprit not giving the spark plugs enough voltage.

I had plum forgotten about checkng the points in the regulator, nor had i even remembered to check for the remote regulator.
Do you think thet a faulty Voltage Regulator can cause the above mentioned popping back thru the carb, and in my case, backfiring thru the exhaust also ?

thanks for any suggestions