Anyone know what type bulbs and how many for the instrument cluster?
The gauge lights (tach, mph, oil, temp) on my daughter's Escape are barely readable at night. The dimmer is turned all the way up and the fuse is good so I'm thinking I need to pull the cluster (already found instructions on that) and replace the bulbs. I can't find any info anywhere on the type of bulbs or how many I'll need. And this busy single mom doesn't want to have to pull the cluster just to find the answer.
Any insights are greatly appreciated.
I'm also pondering converting to LED and am wondering if this is simply a plug-and-play conversion or if I would need to make additional changes - such as the sockets.
Thanks!

 

If you do LEd you must make sure they are in the correct orientation + to + and - to - or they will not work. They may not be dimmable though,

 

thanks for the info but I think that's the 2001-2007 cluster - Mine is a 2009 (2008-2012 version)
my cluster looks like this
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I don't know about the non-Hybrids, but on the Hybrids the gauge cluster uses multi-pack-LED lamps for the gauges and they are soldered to the board. This requires disassembling the cluster and soldering in new LEDs. There are no conventional replacement bulbs.

Sit in the drivers seat.
Grab the upper portion of the gauge surround and pull it towards you, it will pop out.
If you have decent finger strength pull around the lower sections of the gauge to pull the rest of the surround off. You can also use interior trim prybars(plastic) to remove the surround.
Now you will have access to four 7mm headed bolts.
Remove the bolts
Pull the gauge cluster out gently forward and rotate/flip it up.
Depress the locking tab on the connector int he upper right corner and wiggle the connector off.

If there are any conventionally replaceable bulbs you should be able to see them on the backside of the gauge cluster. If not then there will only be the four gauge motors(white) and the chime speaker(black).

On the Hybrid models there are eight multi-pack LED lamps for the gauges.
Three under the Tach
Three under the Speedo
One under the Fuel
One under the Charge/Discharge gauge.
These can only be replaced by soldering/de-soldering.
You must disassemble the gauge cluster to access them.
Remove the two torx bolts at the top of the cluster to remove the lexan cover.
Use blue painters tape and slide under the gauge needles near their '0' points.
Rotate the gauges to their most 'zero' point, the motors are limted to minimum/maximum sweeps, you want to rotate the pointers to minimum(counter clockwise).
Mark on the blue tape where the needles are at rest.
Re-verify you have the needles marked correctly.
Using some cardstock(cereal box) to protect the cluster face, use a salad/dessert fork to prise the needles up.
Use the inner tines to reach under the needle, get them centered/inline with the shaft, rotate fork down to lift needle assembly up, while also grabbing the needle assembly with the other hand to assist pulling the needle off.
It will come off in that awful plastic on metal, I think I'm going to break it, feeling.
With all four needles off, flip over the cluster.
Remove the single torx bolt in the center.
Remove the translucent guard.
Gently pull the board away from the body while depressing the locking tabs.
*Only the upper 8 tabs are malleable, bottom four locking tabs do not move, don't force those.*
With the upper 8 tabs release, gently pull the board up to clear the locating tabs and slide it up to clear the lower tabs.
Don't force it as the message center LCD is a tight fit. Gently finagling will get it off and release.

In my case I believe there may be a bad connection as I'm gradually loosing the Tach LEDs I have to inspect the board itself better. I just pulled the Hybrid one out to verify it was actually LED packs and not simply a buried bulb.

FWIW, you cannot simply use a cluster from another vehicle. Cluster is married to the PCM, if you simply swap out clusters the vehicle will not even start due to the security 'feature'.

 

Couldn't find any info on the LEDs nor where they might have been available.
Fords solution is a new cluster ~$450 and hr for programming it to marry ~hr@shop rate. Easily ~$600 just to fix two 10¢ LEDs.
Local yarde had a few '09-12 FEH in inventory, ~10mins later I had an '09 FEH(2WD) cluster for ~$50.

Disassembled as per previous post, a meter can be used to test the LEDs. They should light up both red and blue, depending on how you have the leads polarity attached.
Note the orientation of the LED pack before removal, one corner has a notch in it, make sure to keep that notch location correct upon installation. The notch is not clocked the same all the time, verify before removal/installation. To remove the LEDpack it would be easiest to have a competent friend, two soldering irons, desoldering braid and an Exacto knife to gently get under the LED and lift it, don't scratch/cut/yank. Don't force removal as you may tear the pad.
Heat up both sides of the LEDpack, getting two pads at once with the irons and desoldering braid. After a few moments try lifting the LED pack up with the knife. Once one side has lifted the other side can desoldered much easier. Coordination is key.
Installation is easier, verify the pad is clean and has an appropriate amount of solder.
Place LED pack down in correct clocked orientation and solder on.

Verify LED packs still function with voltmeter, red and blue function should work and the LED packs on the same gauge will dimly light as well.
Plug board, by itself, into vehicle all the LEDs will illuminate for a moment while communicating with the PCM. If all functions well, reassemble gauge cluster and test drive.

It has been two weeks and the gauge cluster seems to be functioning fine and having a fully lit gauge cluster de-hooptifies the dash.

 

You might try giving theses guys a call.
https://circuitboardmedics.com

 

Update to this.
Gauge cluster is still working fine, LEDs are still lit up.