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Now that I am going back down the proverbial rabbit hole once again I decided to replace the I beam bushings since that would aid the radius arm bushings. I looked on line and many people confuse the two and when they say I beam they are really talking pivot bushings.
OK, my issue is getting the big bolt out. I have the truck jacked up on the opposite side so the bolt head will clear the I beam behind. However, trying to raise the beam I am working with just a little bit to ease stress on the bolt for removal doesn't work. To my eye the bolt needs to mover to the left as I look at it from the front as it butts up against the right side of the hole. That is where the restriction is and now that I am into it there is no turning back. Would be nice to drive it once this year but can't since the 11 year old tires are due for replacement. All this is for the right side of the truck with the new radius arm bushing in, spring and new shock installed but that I beam bolt. Suggestions...?
Had lunch, had a beer, and went back to unscrew the bolt from behind. However, after three hours of beating the lip of the bushing a little out and in it hasn't budged. Hitting a knuckle on my left hand twice in one minute ended the day since I couldn't grip anything further. I thought I'd get both out in the afternoon. Obviously it may take a week or two per bushing instead.
The outer metal shell that mates to the bore is pretty soft. I used a high quality cape point chisel to cut it. Granted, I replaced them when I had the entire front end disassembled and off the truck.
Mike:
I read your earlier post and was trying to picture what you were struggling with....now I know. Be careful! If you're going back with polyurethane bushings, I believe (when I did mine) they require that you leave the steel sleeve in the beam. In that case you don't want to beat them up. If you're going with another type that has the rubber in a steel sleeve then you can burn the rubber out with a propane torch or such, then cut the steel with a hacksaw blade and peel it out. With the latter, you probably will have to use a press to install the new bushings, so you'll need to take off the beam and put it in a press. If you're using the polyurethane bushings you can just press them in by hand....(now injured) or a C-clamp. The poly ones are really snug and not very squishy...so they might give you a little fight going in. But at least you should be able to do them without removing the beams completely.
....oh yea...be prepared or have a helper when you try to press those beams back into position and insert the bolt. Since they're still attached on the outboard side you may have to get creative with jacks and such to pull the beams in enough to line up with the hole.
....oh yea...be prepared or have a helper when you try to press those beams back into position and insert the bolt. Since they're still attached on the outboard side you may have to get creative with jacks and such to pull the beams in enough to line up with the hole.
I blew the rubber out with a torch when I replaced my I-beam bushings. Cleaned the shells out with a wire brush and installed new poly bushings with a non petroleum grease.
If your shells are damaged and you are going back with poly bushings, you will need to buy new rubber bushings just for the outer shells and then cook the rubber out with a torch.
The poly bushings are easy to install into the I-beams, but fit tightly into the frame mount. I had to smooth everything up and then grease it so the bushing didn't tear when I was forcing it in with a jack.
With good poly bushings and a sway bar. these trucks drive amazingly well.
On my 81 I went the burn and poly route when rebuilding the front end.
And yes you need to know if you need to reuse the old outer shell before going at the old bushings.
Because I had the beans out I soaked the rubber ends in old gas overnight before the light off.
A little poke with a screw driver and clean up with wire brush is all it took.
The poly bushing went in the beams easy with the grease that comes with them.
You can also use some thread all, washers and a large deep socket to pull in the bushings, either type rubber/steel or poly.
Because I was also doing poly radius bushings I don't remember having much trouble getting the beams back in place.
I also used never-seize on the beam bolts so if I ever have to remove them they (I hope) will not rust to the inner sleeve.
Dave ----
Well tomorrow I'll simply remove the rubber remains and cut out that one sleeve. I have a clean replacement sleeve to put back in so I can use the poly bushings. Change my mind on the stock rubber as I don't want to do this again. The other bushing is still in so I'll just remove the rubber while I await the delivery of the poly bushings.
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