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Hi, I have a 1963 F-100 stepside with a 292 Y-block in it. Everywhere I look it either says to put 6 or 5 quarts then check the dip. My problem is that I do not have a factory dip stick and it is adjustable and I am not completely sure what oil to put in it. For reference of my area and temperature, I live in the Dallas Texas area. Can anyone tell me what type of oil I need, and how much? Thank you! 😁😊
I use 10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer. Use 6 quarts with a filter change. Right after adding oil you should pull the dip stick and mark it with a file. Mine isn’t factory either
I use 10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer. Use 6 quarts with a filter change. Right after adding oil you should pull the dip stick and mark it with a file. Mine isn’t factory either
Okay, thank you! Also, do you know what pressure I should be at and what temperature?
Here is mixture for engines for this era. Zinc for the cam, lucas oil stablizer to stop dry starts and good oil. Don't forget a quality filter, I use Napa gold.
I also use VR1.
It is usually available at about any parts store and if they have to order it in there is usually no shipping charge. I have tried a bunch of different high zinc oils over the years. The Cen-Pe-Co is excellent oil and holds better oil pressure hot than the VR1, if you can find it. It's only around $5 a quart from the plant but by the time you pay UPS to haul it, it's a wash against VR1.
I have a 4 barrel Cleveland on my run stand that was run in with VR1 10-30. I'm going to run it again with the Driven semi-synthetic 10-30 and if it holds the same oil pressure hot as the VR1 it will probably get that for the rest of it's life.
Here is something from the Driven web site that is about the easiest to understand discussion of ZDDP and oil that I have ran across. https://tech.drivenracingoil.com/zinc-in-motor-oil/
A note for anyone who is installing a new cam and lifters: There has not been a flat tappet lifter made in the USA since 2015. No amount of ZDDP will make up for a lifter made with inferior materials, sloppy machine work or bad heat treat. Inspect them carefully.
The VR1 seems like really good oil, has excellent film strength.
Technically though, right from the horse's mouth (Valvoline) it is supposed to be changed every 3 months, or 3,000 miles. I like to change oil & filter once a year (whether it needs it or not) and don't always hit the mileage. VR1 doesn't have much, if any in the way of engine detergents or dispersants, this is the reason for the short oil change interval, a characteristic of racing oil. To be honest a factory stock Y-Block has very low valve spring pressure and I seriously doubt the zinc/phosphorous matters too much.
In the case of the Y-Block in particular though one thing we do know for certain is that the valve train needs to receive adequate flow lubrication up through the "dogleg" in the heads, through the rocker shafts and rocker arms etc. Very common for the rocker bores and underside of rocker shafts to have serious scoring and galling due to oil starvation. Also important to check for proper valve lash adjustment, excessive clearance really beats the hell out of the valve train.
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