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Third time is the charm, I've heard. Twice the posting has disappeared on me when I tried to post it. I am currently installing a disk brake setup on my 1964 F250. Straight axle, Eight lug hub. There are a lot of options for the five lug wheels but the pickings are kind of small for the 3/4 ton. Another member pointed me in the right direction and I purchased a kit from TRS out on Colorado. The kit is fitting fairly well but I have a question about the Master Cylinder. I currently have a dual reservoir master cylinder with a 7" single booster. Can I keep my current setup and add a proportioning valve to the brake lines to get it to work correctly or do I need an entirely new brake setup with Master cylinder and proportioning valve? The calipers used in the new setup are called the Large GM Calipers. Used in the mid 1970's to the 1980's.
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What application is your current master cylinder? Generally a disk/drum MC has a larger reservoir for the disk side. This is because calipers require a substantially larger volume of fluid to reach full stroke relative to wheel cylinders.
Surely TSM has a recommendation for a m/c that works best with their kit. It might be worthwhile to check with them. If you have a drum/drum master currently, it won't have enough volume to work with the disc calipers. So, short answer, no, it won't work. Many disc conversion kits use some type of Corvette-style master with 2 large sides suitable for 4 wheel disc brakes. They work fine with rear drums, too.
Surely TSM has a recommendation for a m/c that works best with their kit. It might be worthwhile to check with them. If you have a drum/drum master currently, it won't have enough volume to work with the disc calipers. So, short answer, no, it won't work. Many disc conversion kits use some type of Corvette-style master with 2 large sides suitable for 4 wheel disc brakes. They work fine with rear drums, too.
Was thinking the same thing, it's odd the disk brake kit manufacturer doesn't have much information on their website.... My other thought was to use a master from the 'donor', 70s-80s light GM trucks used around a 1" bore wheel cylinder, so close to what this F250 should have. The only other is factor would be the efficacy of the aftermarket booster.
You may want to look at the late 60's to mid 70's corvette master cylinder. Not sure of the part number any longer. They had one we believed was a disk drum. Bore size the big thing here you do not want to go over 1-1/8" bore size.
Thank You,
David""
I bought one today from the local parts store. 1 1/8" bore, One big reservoir and one smaller one. Set up for disk/drum. What the late 70's C20 would use.
I'll let you know how it works. I'm going to get an adjustable proportioning valve for the brake lines. I don't have enough room on top so I'll get the frame mount style and plumb it underneath the cab..
I put a 460 EFI motor in the old truck a couple of years ago after the 292 gave up the ghost, The 460 was attached to a ZF5 manual transmission so they went in together. Having the overdrive gear really helps out. With the 4.10 rear end. She will do 65 mph all day at 2200 RPM. Hills are no longer a problem where I use to try to get a run at the bottom I don't have to do that anymore.
I recently read or started reading, your post on the death of the 292 and subsequent fitting of the 460. Again, I'm not sure if I never finished reading, or if you quit writing, but I'm glad to hear that all worked out and that you are now doing something to stop that behemoth!
Dan.
Hey Dan, It worked out just great. There were a lot of wires to cut and solder back together so I could keep the computer for the EFI but it was worth it. The engine and transmission fit in place so well I was able to use the drive line from the 1989 F250 without changing a thing. It fit as if it had been made for it. I had swapped out the rear end a couple of years ago from the original SRW to a DRW from a 1983 F350 welding truck. A Sterling 10.25 with a 4.10 gear ratio. The U Joints fit right in place. Best thing is that the fuel mileage with the old 292 was 6 to 6 1/2 MPG. With the 460 I can get a little over 10 MPG. ----- https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...per-292-a.html
The old eight lug drum on the passenger side. Getting ready to start. Drum off and working on the shoes. Everything off except for the backing plate. The caliper bracket in place. I could see that the shock was going to be in the way.
Started on the passenger side of the disk/drum conversion
Things are going OK with the disk brakes so far. Pretty easy to put together. Checking out the fit of the parts. New rotor fits over the old lugs Caliper for the job. It's a large GM. Single cylinder. Here is where the trouble started. Almost no movement to the left when everything was in place. The caliper would hit the shock. This is about where I would have to move the shock mount to so I would have full range of movement when turning.
Building a new bracket for the bottom of the shock. Clearance inside the wheel is close but works out great. Using 16" rims. The 16.5 would add just a little bit of room but don't need it. The new lower shock bracket before painting. The shock in it's new position from the front of the truck. Full turning to the right and the left. A look at the bracket from the rear.
Finished the passenger side. Had to build a new shock mount for clearance between the caliper and the shock. I went to the drivers side and things went down hill fast. There is less room on this side than there was on the passenger side plus the Pitman arm is in the way. Can't turn to the right at all and no plae to move the shock to. Drivers side. Shock is right next to the caliper and can not turn to the right. The Pitman arm can not be moved far enough to move the shock mounting bracket.
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,Doug.
