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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Dual Master cylinder upgrade

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Old Jul 28, 2020 | 02:48 PM
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Dual Master cylinder upgrade

I am finally ready to pull the trigger on a new dual res master cylinder and replace my original single.

Its for a 1964 F100. I plan on keeping it drum/drum, no power assist.

I plan on only doing about 50mph tops..that's probably all the 223 I6 will do.

My question is will the brake pressure valve screw on to the front of a new one?
I was looking at the NAPA brand.

https://napaau.to/3hJ5Z

I have been reading and collecting as much as I can on this upgrade, I just can't find a specific answer for this brand.
Any hint or links are welcomed, and appreciated.

thanks,
rtc
 
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Old Jul 28, 2020 | 03:04 PM
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I* dont know about your Napa master cylinder, I got a Reybestos off Amazon..But I believe what you are looking for is a 50137 inverted flare tee, 3/16" with a 1/8 NPT port. This will go in one of the brake lines and allow you to mount the pressure switch for the brakelights. I got mine on Amazon for about $5. Or you can do what many members recommend, and put a later model brake light switch under the dash, on the linkage.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2020 | 04:13 PM
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Thanks...as a super green mechanic...my skills are limited to screw out the old piece and screw in another...but I'm willing to learn!
The under the dash brake light button will be brain expanding. (really, I watched a guy who is helping me with this pull out a vent window from the frame and not break it...super green)

thank,
rtc
 
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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 05:04 PM
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Many of your dual reservoir master cylinders are set up for Disks in front and drums in back.

Because of that, either the master cylinder, the proportioning valve, or distribution block will contain a residual pressure valve for the BACK drums but not the FRONT disks.
You can tell if your master cylinder has residual pressure valves installed by looking in the port where the brake lines attach. It has a residual pressure valve if the center of the inverted flare connection is brass and not the parent cast iron material.

If you are running drums up front you will want to use a dual reservoir master cylinder that has residual pressure valves for both the front and back.
The residual pressure valve keeps 6 to 10 psi in the brake line at all times to prevent the wheel cylinders from sucking in air. It also helps to keep the wheel cylinder seals seated in the bore.

Some Ford trucks ran dual masters set up for drum/drum in the late 60's early 70's. Just before front disks became standard equipment. That's the master cylinder you want.
I would not suggest running a modern disk/drum master on a drum/drum setup.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 09:28 PM
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Thanks,

I had researched this about 6 months ago...my past self and present don't communicate too well. Thanks again for the info.


I was looking a product from Leeds: https://bit.ly/2BFvf07
I don't know much about it...it looks like overkill. This truck will not be doing over 50mph!

thanks,
rtc
 
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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 09:56 PM
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The kit from Leeds looks like what your looking for. Do plan on replacing all the brake lines front to rear including the rubber hoses. Don't use the proportioning valve that's mounted on the frame where all the original lines meet up at. Save yourself some time and just cut all the original lines out and throw them away. Napa sells lines that don't require a bender and don't kink. You will need a good flair tool and tubing cutter. This is not a hard job. Just a little planning.
 
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