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My AC compressor is making an intermittent noise. I am 500 miles from home. I dont care about having AC, my concern is if I try to get this beast home I am going to cease up the bearing or something in it and cause the belt to go in the middle of the interstate, or worse nowhere.
Does anyone know if I can just use a different serpentine belt and just run it home? If so, does anyone know how long it needs to be? The mechanics down here are going to have a field day on my wallet if I try and get it fixed this far from home. Besides. I'll do it myself. Just dont have enough tools with me.
Of if anyone knows of a trustworthy non opportunistic mechanic in the Warrenton, VA area?
Hello, Do you have a sticker under the hood showing how the serpentine belt is run around the pulleys. Sometimes the sticker will show with and without AC. I would guess a local parts store could help you with this also. Good luck.
It sounds like the problem occurs when the clutch is engaged, indicating a problem inside the compressor. You could try simply unplugging the connector to the clutch or the pressure switch. If the problem is internal to the compressor and not in the clutch itself you should be able to get home. You will know if the noise stops if it is unplugged when it would normally cycle. Or try just using the "vent" position on your dash control (using either defrost position will engage the compressor.)
Be aware that you may save yourself a lot of money by keeping the compressor from shelling out and contaminating the system if it hasn't done so already. Sometimes we are fortunate to get the warning noise first!
It sounds like the problem occurs when the clutch is engaged, indicating a problem inside the compressor. You could try simply unplugging the connector to the clutch or the pressure switch. If the problem is internal to the compressor and not in the clutch itself you should be able to get home. You will know if the noise stops if it is unplugged when it would normally cycle. Or try just using the "vent" position on your dash control (using either defrost position will engage the compressor.)
Be aware that you may save yourself a lot of money by keeping the compressor from shelling out and contaminating the system if it hasn't done so already. Sometimes we are fortunate to get the warning noise first!
I will give that a shot. And yes it does seem to be the clutch.
What do you mean by shelling out? Is it possible that it is just the clutch at this point and I can get away without killing the compressor? If I drive it 500 miles you figure that will muck up the works a little further?
I talked to a local shop the other day who wanted $1800 to replace the compressor for me. Seems a little on the "Bend over here it comes" side if you ask me. I think I made the mistake of telling him that I was from out of state.
I will give that a shot. And yes it does seem to be the clutch.
What do you mean by shelling out? Is it possible that it is just the clutch at this point and I can get away without killing the compressor? If I drive it 500 miles you figure that will muck up the works a little further?
I talked to a local shop the other day who wanted $1800 to replace the compressor for me. Seems a little on the "Bend over here it comes" side if you ask me. I think I made the mistake of telling him that I was from out of state.
My local auto parts store runs between$180-$300 for your compressor, so $1800 seems steep even for an OEM replacement. Don't know the cost of the OEM one.
The"shelling out" meant scattering internal pieces throughout the system when the compressor eats itself, as they can do that.
Unplugging the compressor should solve the internal destruction part if it is just the clutch. Bypassing with a new belt would be great also if possible.
There's a bolt in the compressor clutch that holds whatever they call the friction ring at the front. It's not the electromagnet coil that energizes the clutch, but the actual friction material at the front that is pulled in by the electromagnet to engage your compressor.
Take that bolt out and pull off the clutch disk. No need to disassemble anything to get to this on the 6.8L V-10. I've had mine off for 2 years after my compressor started making noises like it was going to grenade. I can run my air controls any way I want without affecting the compressor now. No need to change (or remove) the belt, either !
I took a few pictures of my AC without the clutch: Small bolt to the right is all that holds the A/C clutch in place. It's very small- around 8mm. Clutch just pulls out by hand. No puller needed. That's my A/C unit without the clutch (looking up from the bottom). Pink "nipple" protects the hub where the bolt used to be. No need to remove the belt. Just the one bolt.
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