When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi, new to the forum, I was recently gifted a 2003 F250 SD with the 5.4L, and it has 128,000 on it, and to my knowledge, my father in law never had the plugs changed, due to the spark plug breaking issue. I have read that is in the 3V and not the 2V, and I should have the 2V? Also, I have read threads on the 2V about whether to use 14lbs vs 28lbs for the torque. I have changed plugs before on other cars and trucks I've owned, and this is truck isn't going to be driven but for some farm work on weekends, I'd like to changed them myself instead of paying a ton of money if not a daily driver. The truck runs fine, seems to get 12-13 mpg from my best guess, also wondering if its even worth changing them unless an issue arises?
I''m only quoting what I have read - the broken spark plug issue was only on the 5.4 3 v engines from 2004 to 2008 - so you may be ok with your 2003 - also read that prior engines had a problem of spark plugs being shot out of the engine - to overcome this it is recommended to over torque any new plugs you are putting into the engine - I recently changed the plugs on my 1998 ford club wagon with a 5.4 2 v and torqued the plugs to 20 ft lbs instead of the recommended 13 ft lbs -
I changed the plugs in my '03 at about 105K. Not because they needed it necessarily. Like you said, the truck ran fine. But I figured they just needed changed. I did it myself. It was about a 6 pack and a half job. A couple of things I remember about it. One, it is not necessary, but makes the job way easier to move the fuel rails out of the way. Not a lot, just enough to get easier access to the COPS and plugs. Number 2, the last two plugs were a pain in the ****! I started on the driver's side, front to back. Then the passengers side, front to back. The back two plugs, and especially the last one was cause for some new words to be made up. Oh, which brings up number 3 (now that I remember). Make sure you have a universal joint socket. You will absolutely need it for those back plugs near the firewall.
All in all, it was not a bad job. Since the truck fine before, I didn't really notice any difference. I put another 20K or so on it, and sold it when I got my 5th wheel. The guy I sold it to drove it for another 25 K or so until someone smacked him in an intersection and totaled the truck. That was without a doubt the best vehicle I ever owned. I bought it used in 2005 with 29K on it. It was never in the shop for anything. Routine maintenance and tires was all I ever did to it. Oh, I did also swap the rear end from the 3.73 to a 4.30, but that was to help my towing. The 3.73 went with the truck when I sold it. It was a gem of a truck, and it never let me down.
Thanks Ed, mine is exactly the same, color little on hood and roof, but in good time, will look into that, overall, cant complain as it was free from the in-laws. I did popped the hood and knew after looking those 2 on the rear passenger side were going to be the hardest, I figured I'd start on driver side. Hopefully may have time this weekend to do the job. thanks again
One thing to do before you remove the plug is used compressed air to blow out any debris that might be there to ensure you don't get in the cylinders.
Yes, this, thanks Raymond! I did forget this, but it is important. Those holes are deep, and it's easy for stuff to fall in. Be careful as your working also.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.