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I have a heavy camper (6,5metric tons) based on 2006 F350 6,0. I am looking for better brakes. Are there better than the original ones that get stuck and hot again and again?
Go to Rock Auto. I don't tow at all but I just had my front and rear brakes replaced at about 43k miles on my truck, 2016 F350. Because I live in the rust belt, it causes corrosion on the rotor surfaces. I bought the coated Power Stop front and rear set. They came with the Z17 ceramic pads, the first step up from the OEM pads. Time will tell how they wear but for the price you can't beat it. There are 2 more steps up from OEM, the Z23 and then the Z36 pads.
I didn't go with the slotted and drilled set because of the salt used here on the roads. It actually causes whole parts of the rotors to fall out within the slots and holes. If you are not in the rust belt, I'd recommend you try a set.
With a less than 15k load you shouldn't be getting the trucks service brakes super hot. The brake bias should have the majority of the trailer braking it's own weight. Combined with proper grade braking it really shouldn't overheat stock properly installed brakes.
I just did the Z36 brake kit from powerstop. Drilled and slotted rotors and the Z36 pads. Brakes were warped a bit when I bought it and would shudder/grab when stopping, so that's why the upgrade.
2001 f250 4x4 CCSB 33" tires. Towed a 24' toy hauler with 2 quads in it thru the mountains. No issues keeping the speed down when going down hill.
I have the same brakes on the wife's 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 running 37" tires. I changed the brakes because the stock ones had some serious fade with the larger tires.
There are several places you can get the brakes from. I ordered mine from Summit and got a $50. off when I was looking at them. so $300 for a complete kit delivered to my door.
Rock auto currently doesn't have the whole set (front and rear) as I bought it. I believe the pads were the Z17s.
My buddy told me not to buy the drilled and slotted rotors because of the salt around here. He has seen those rotors with sections that just fall out because of the salted roads in winter here.
Hi,
I will not use drilled and slotted rotors. In my opinion, this only makes sense for racing cars. The truck/rotors has only 50.000mls on it. I will machine the rotors on my lathe, then they are like new. The Z36 pads will be used and I will overhaul the calipers and will remount the pistons with brake paste. I am also thinking about how I can increase the brake pressure and improve the hydrobooster system ...
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