DANA 60 5x5.5 conversion
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
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From: georgia
DANA 60 5x5.5 conversion
I have a 5x5.5 Dana 60 with drums on my rear end. When I put the independent front suspension on it changed the front to a 5x4.5. I matched the rear with wheels spacers. My problem now is that I just changed wheels and they're a tad bit wider and there's a small clearance issue with the bed on bumps. So by getting rid of the wheels spacers it should suck the wheels in enough for clearance. But then my problem would be the wheels don't match the studs. Is there a way to convert the rear to 5x4.5 in any way shape or form. I'd like to keep the axle and not have to swap it.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
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From: georgia
Trying my best not to swap to 9" or another axle. Unless it's just the axle shafts. I know you can get rotors re drilled. Does it work the same with drums? Would it be easier to swap to rotors and have those re drilled?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
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From: georgia
I don't know if it's a full floater. I have the diff tag still and the dom number that is stamped on the axle I can check those when I get home. If that doesn't tell me how can I find out. Thanks for the responses yall
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
No such thing as an F100 w/a Dana 60 rear axle. Dana 60 (8 lug wheels on a 6.50" bolt circle) rear axle only installed in F250's and 1979 F350 4WD's.
5 lug wheels on a 5.50" bolt circle: 1963/66 F100 with optional Dana 60.2 .. 1966/69 F100 with optional Dana 60.3
5 lug wheels on a 5.50" bolt circle: 1963/66 F100 with optional Dana 60.2 .. 1966/69 F100 with optional Dana 60.3
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
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From: georgia
Understood. Not arguing. Just saying the diff tag says it's a Dana 60 the dom stamp says it's a Dana 60 so I'm gonna go with it's a Dana 60. Whether it came factory or not that's what's under there.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Any reputable machine shop should be able to do this for you for a fairly low cost. The biggest factor to re-drilling is to firstly get everything centered... then secondly, to get the new holes at the correct spots so that the rotation of the axle isn't off-balance due to the existing holes.
The ol' measure twice cut once method should do the trick
EDIT: Make sure you tell the machine shop the correct side of hole you want drilled so you don't have to swap out your studs for something different - I would use the exact same size of stud (factory size) if possible because it keeps things consistent.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
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From: georgia
It looks like getting them re-drilled would be the best option. For those that say they can't be drilled to a smaller bolt pattern, why is that? Curious before I tank them off and call a machine shop.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
I would imagine that it has to do with the structural integrity and overall capacity of the axle to safely handle the load from the lug studs.
You're removing material from a piece of metal that's intended to hold one quarter of the entire load the vehicle exerts (weight + movement). Removing material weakens it substantially... thereby increasing the chances of something breaking or going wrong in the future.
I don't think it's a matter of "you can't", it's a matter of "it's not recommended".
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 878
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From: british columbia, canada
To tell if its a full floater, it will have bolts holding the axel in, then the axel can come out. That has nothing to do with holding the wheel on. Next step is to remove the large nuts under the axel(2 of them) the outer wheel bearing is next. Then the drum and hub assembly can come off.Thats where the wheel mounts. It may be possible to redrill those 2 parts.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,238
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From: Clinton, MS
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 172
Likes: 1
From: georgia
Looks like I'll be pulling it apart this weekend to find out if it's a floater or not and then go from there.
On the topic of the structure, and the ability to even get the axle drilled out. I would weld up the previous holes. To hopefully add some of that structure back. Does that seem reasonable?
On the topic of the structure, and the ability to even get the axle drilled out. I would weld up the previous holes. To hopefully add some of that structure back. Does that seem reasonable?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 920
Likes: 20
From: Malheur Co. OR
Ok, just to clear things up. Do you have a full floater or a semi floater?
If you have an 8 lug full floater as some people have assumed in their replies, redrilling them won't work.
If you have a semi floater then redrill them. There are plenty of high horsepower dragsters running 9 inch, 10 inch, Dana 60, and others with "lightening holes" drilled in the flanges. Just have the holes placed half way between the existing ones. Just remember, what you do to the axles you will have to do to the brakes as well.
If you have an 8 lug full floater as some people have assumed in their replies, redrilling them won't work.
If you have a semi floater then redrill them. There are plenty of high horsepower dragsters running 9 inch, 10 inch, Dana 60, and others with "lightening holes" drilled in the flanges. Just have the holes placed half way between the existing ones. Just remember, what you do to the axles you will have to do to the brakes as well.