I'm an HVAC diagnostic repair technician so don't go easy on me. Can troubleshoot anything out there provided I have at least a schematic of functional operation.

Unfortunately my Chiltons book has little more than a few things beyond check the break lights and if not that then tough luck. I need more than that to pursue this. If anybody has a schematic for the cruise control on a 2000 Ranger 3.0 2 wheel drive flareside supercab then please relay it.

Already popped the hardness at the module (passenger side engine compartment) and the two connectors on the master cylinder since I heard they can be related. No signs of varnish and re-plugging them in probably eliminated a bad connection. Just need more than that to troubleshoot deeper. Thanks.

 

I assume your cruise is cable driven via vacuum diaphragm. Have you checked your vacuum lines from the manifold to the cruise? And made sure there's no binding in the cable? If my memory is correct, drive by wire didn't happen on Explorers until about 4 or 5 years later.

If your Ranger is like my Explorer, one set of brake pedal position switch contacts is used for the brake lights and another set is used as an input to the PCM. Just because your brakes work, doesn't mean your PCM is seeing the same brake pedal position. Even without a schematic, you might be able to trace the wires and figure out if the contacts are closed/open when they should be.

Does your Ranger have a manual transmission? Clutch pedal position also is used to enable/disable cruise. It also has multiple sets of contacts, one set being used to cancel cruise.

Does your Ranger have a brake pressure switch? Explorers also use a brake pressure switch to cancel cruise. The switch opens with brake pressure, which will cancel cruise.

 

Do the cruise control self-test and see if anything comes up.

See: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-control.html

 

Also check for a non operating rear brake lamp, if its not lighting up, the cruise wont set.
The master cyl mounted cruise control deactivation switch has been the subject of a recall, so has the recall been done???? If your deactivation switch has the rust red color insulator, its recommended that it be changed, Especially if its showing signs of weeping brake fluid. Ford won't replace it under the recall if it isn't leaking, but I had them replace mine anyway, with the Black insulator deactivation switch, when they performed my recall.

 

Scratch that thought on the binding cruise cable. You would feel it in the gas pedal.

 

Thanks for the replies and sorry it took so long to get back on. Right after posting this and lacking a schematic I broke out a multi meter and started taking readings. After reading about issues with pressure switch recalls I went straight to that. Checked it's continuity (open if memory serves) and then compared that to one at the junk yard, which was the reverse (normally closed, or vise versa if I have this backwards from memory).

So obviously the switch was bad and $8 later for the used part I was back in business with a working cruise control. I had saw the bulletins on fires being caused by these switches leaking break fluid into the electrical connector and the Ford recall which simply put a fuse inline with the switch harness. Checked and saw my truck already had this done. There's a big tag on the harness that states this.

Thanks again for all the info. Now to tackle the door ajar light, which looks to be a bad GEM module. Are those very specific to year and how good of an idea would it be to grab one at the junk yard since I hear this is a very common problem?

 

OK, good trouble shooting feedback on replacing the brake switch. The replacement switch insulator should have been Black in color, Don't use the Rust Red color insulator switch, as those were the ones that leaked & caused the fires.

If the GEM is found to be bad, you'll want to replace it with one from a like equipped Ranger, or I believe the un-like replacement one will likely have to be re-programmed & the Dealer will want to charge Big Bucks to do that.
Most times the dome light staying on is because the door switch is stuck closed, or someone has activated/rotated the dash dimmer thumb wheel switch full up & clicked it into the constantly on position. Then the only way the dome light would go off is if you have the battery saver feature in the GEM that would time out after a long time & turn the cabin & cargo box lamp off to prevent it discharging the battery.
If you come to believe the door dome light switch is stuck, spritz it with some WD-40 & open & close the door 8-10 times to work it in. this might work for 6 months or so & you'll have to do it again, but sure beats having to remove the door panel to replace the switch, which is in with the door latch. There is a thread in the "Tech Info" thread atop the forums index page, about how to spritz the door switches.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.