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I just did ARP head studs and at the same time i put a new factory rebuilt oil pump and a factory oil cooler. I went with a bullet proof water pump at this time also. Last summer i did an egr delete from bullet proof. Has anyone had any issues running this set up? Or should i really have spent the money and got a bullet proof oil cooler also.
I've never used a BPD Oil cooler. The factory cooler will work just fine in your situation. IMO the BPD is not needed, and too expensive for what it is...
My original cooler went to 155,000 miles, I replaced it when the deltas got to 20*. I can't justify the BPD for what it takes me to replace a stock cooler, and from what I see, it performs no better than a fully functioning stocker. Now if they come out with an add on air to oil cooler to work in conjunction with the factory set-up, that would get my attention, but not at BPD inflated prices.
THE core problem with the 6.0L is the combination of Ford Gold coolant, a 100,000 mile change interval, an EGR cooler that abuses coolant, and an oil cooler with tiny coolant passages. Change any of those factors and the problem goes away.
Use coolant that doesn't leach silicates, like what International uses in this engine.
Use a coolant filter to catch the casting sand.
Change the coolant at 40K.
Consider deleting the EGR cooler. This is illegal for on-road use, and even though you may live in an area where inspections aren't performed right now, I have no faith in politicians to keep things that way. This is not an option I'm prepared to take.
Have a monitor that can display EOT and ECT.
If you do these things, you'll probably prevent the problem in the first place, and if you do have a problem it won't sneak up on you.
I just did ARP head studs and at the same time i put a new factory rebuilt oil pump and a factory oil cooler. I went with a bullet proof water pump at this time also. Last summer i did an egr delete from bullet proof. Has anyone had any issues running this set up? Or should i really have spent the money and got a bullet proof oil cooler also.
i dropped the dime on the BPD oil cooler. i'm driving a van, and
getting to stuff to fix it is a bit nastier than a f series. i also don't
have to have a priest bless my coolant. i have nothing in the coolant
flow that has small passages any more.
we all use the delta between eot and ect to see if the cooler is
doing it's job... with the bpd setup, it doesn't matter any more,
and ironically, my temps are now within a degree or two of each
other most of the time.
in the 11 months i've been running bpd cooler, i have yet to have
either oil or coolant hit 200 degrees, except once, when the coolant
tapped 200 for about 5 minutes... i have an alarm
on the dashdaq to go off if i do, just to see when it happens.
so, it works, and works well for me. is it overpriced? yes.
however, it's cnc machined, and a nice piece of work.
The ONLY thing that concerns me now - is some yaahoo hitting my
driver-front fender where my BPD oil filter is and having nice hot oil
spraying everywhere..
With this fresh rebuild my eot and ect were running with in a 1-3 degrees. Im in northern NY and been cold the dealer when we did this build put 10w30 in it was the ford diesel stuff but idk how i feel about running 10w30
I'm glad I saw this post because right now I have my 06 tore down doing ARP studs and gaskets and getting ready to start building back up. I am debating doing the BPD external cooler and BDP EGR cooler or OEM cooler and BPD EGR and trying to get as many opinions as possible!!
Why waste your money on the external cooler when the factory one works fine provided you maintain yourccooling system?
The unknown factor seems to be doing a flush
(which IS part of maintenance) stirs up stuff that
plugs up the oil cooler.
Stuff lingering in the radiator or heater core(s)
That finds its way to the oil cooler....
no real way to know untill its too late.
With this fresh rebuild my eot and ect were running with in a 1-3 degrees. Im in northern NY and been cold the dealer when we did this build put 10w30 in it was the ford diesel stuff but idk how i feel about running 10w30
i run 5-40 synthetic shell rotella T-6 year around.
it'll maybe help with stiction a bit. oil changes at 5k intervals.
4 gallons even with a bpd oil cooler.
$21 a gallon at wal mart... it's the only thing i buy there, 8 gal at a time.
The unknown factor seems to be doing a flush
(which IS part of maintenance) stirs up stuff that
plugs up the oil cooler.
Stuff lingering in the radiator or heater core(s)
That finds its way to the oil cooler....
no real way to know untill its too late.
I'm seriously considering doing this as well just so I don't have to worry about it.
I decided I'm into this truck for as long as it will go so I view it more as insurance than anything. All the failures seem to result in huge repair bills not to mention the loss that I would incure to my company's revenues.
The fact that I have to worry about how I should flush my coolant and weather anything is going to break loose has convinced me to do it when funds become available. For now I will put a filter in and wait until I can afford to eliminate the problem. Has there been any downside to the BPD setup besides price I keep looking for a bad review or failure but I can't find any.
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