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Aluminum Rivets on Warranty Plate

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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 11:17 PM
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Aluminum Rivets on Warranty Plate

Where can you get the aluminum rivets used to attach the warranty plate to the door? I removed my plate to paint the truck and would like to put it back with the factory rivets. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 01:50 PM
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I think these will work and they have free shipping

F3183 Mustang Data Plate Rivet Pair 1965-1969 | CJ Pony Parts
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Macs1964F100
Where can you get the aluminum rivets used to attach the warranty plate to the door? I removed my plate to paint the truck and would like to put it back with the factory rivets. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
They are made to be re-used multiple times if taken out properly!

I made a how-to post on this a while back. No time to look for it now.

Its not really a rivet . . .
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 02:22 PM
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Thank you, the shipping was free, $4 for the rivets. Expensive fasteners but worth having the factory finish. Do you have a recommendations for cleaning the plate? I used dish washing soap and a tooth brush but still have some crude. I did not want use anything that might remove the paint.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Macs1964F100
Thank you, the shipping was free, $4 for the rivets. Expensive fasteners but worth having the factory finish. Do you have a recommendations for cleaning the plate? I used dish washing soap and a tooth brush but still have some crude. I did not want use anything that might remove the paint.
Marti Auto also has the rivets and a plate if you need a new one.

Marti Auto Works - RIVET-1 - RIVET - DATA TAG

A tooth brush could scratch the surface. I have a special soap I mix up to clean the plates and they will look new unless of course scratched up.

A good rubbing compound very gently can also help clean it up or a aluminum metal conditioner like PPG DX501 works very very well.

Some wheel cleaners will also work.

Just remember when installing the procedure is opposite of removal. Use a 5/32 punch with a rounded tip and very very gently tap center until it reverses direction. When removing just do the same thing from the inside until the made to reverse divot moves and it will allow the tag to be removed. When you install just tap in as above until it tightens up. If you tap too hard you will punch thru and it will no longer hold properly. I will try to find the pics.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 02:49 PM
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Thanks for the information. I drilled the original rivets out due to my ignorance. I will try the PPG DX501. I have fresh paint inside and out with all new weather stripping so a clean warranty plate and factory rivets will be a good finishing touch.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Macs1964F100
Thanks for the information. I drilled the original rivets out due to my ignorance. I will try the PPG DX501. I have fresh paint inside and out with all new weather stripping so a clean warranty plate and factory rivets will be a good finishing touch.
Bummer you drilled them not knowing. There should be a sticky for this kind of stuff as it would save everyone time including those that have to re-post.

I would suggest there be a how to in our 61-66 forum. Then anyone including myself could go there for reference. Everything just gets buried in the threads and when one uses the search feature its hard to pull back up.

Pics of the so called rivet.

If you look close you will see little slits on portion that goes inside of door.
These are obviously in the unlocked position.

When they are "locked" the little center goes flat and in turn pushes out on the sides making them lock into place. To remove you just tap from the inside and the rivet will return to install~remove position.

The punch shown in these pics is how to properly remove them. To install tap from opposite side just enough so it tightens up. If done correctly they can be used multiple times. I actually have a handful somewhere of ones I have removed. I just clean them up and re-use them.

Do you have a thread on your truck? Would like to see pics of your progress.

<center>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/CalypsoCoralBoss302/Parts%20Illustrations%20and%20Listings/IMG_0404_zpsf7815014.jpg"><br/><br/>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/CalypsoCoralBoss302/Parts%20Illustrations%20and%20Listings/IMG_0403_zps3905d6d1.jpg"><br/><br/>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/CalypsoCoralBoss302/Parts%20Illustrations%20and%20Listings/IMG_0402_zpsf6880d32.jpg">
<br/><br/>
</center>
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 03:40 PM
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All performed on top of a 1966 truck shop manual...as it should be...

BTW, I was offically diagnosed with Noah's Ark Syndrome, which explains a lot...
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 09:23 PM
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Thanks again for the information. Having an index or table of content for How-to's is an excellent idea. I am new to the FTE forum and forums in general but will look at the tools available to manage on the forum. Perhaps I can suggest some ways we can better organize the threads or make the searches for information more targeted. Organizing and classifying data is what I do for a day job, so maybe I can put so of that experience to work here where it really counts.fficeffice" /><O></O>
<O></O>
Here are few pictures of the 64. The bad light hides the rust on the seams and scratches and the pealing cracked lacquer paint. The second shows the original tailgate that was bent badly in a recent accident and is being replaced with a DC 67-72 tailgate. The third shows the bad rust on the firewall which extends to the vent floor. The rust is being cut out as part of the paint job. <O></O>
<O></O>
I have pictures at the media blaster and different stages of primer that need to be downloaded from my camera. What is the easiest way to add pictures to a posting?<O></O>

 

Last edited by Macs1964F100; Dec 19, 2012 at 09:26 PM. Reason: added picture
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