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Pulled my oil pan -- found a surprise ! *** PICS ****
So after about 5 hrs of dinking around with the front axle, finally yanked the oil pan off the XLT 4WD.
This is what I found. Can anyone confirm this is another case of busted chain tensioner guides ? Also, check out the crud blocking off the pickup tube.
The question is , where are the other pieces ? I'm pretty sure there's more hiding somewhere.?!
Were those larger pieces under the oil pickup and blocking the oil from flowing?
When the oil pan came down, the large pieces were in the oil pan, not in the pick-up tube. Which makes sense why the car was losing pressure at higher RPM's. My theory is, when more oil was sucked up at higher RPM's, the larger pieces got sucked up and blocked the flow. At idle, they would fall back down into the pan and pressure would return to normal.
At this point I'm debating whether to pull the engine out and do the work or change the guides and tensioners or do it in-frame.
I wouldn't be too quick to pull the engine. The limited firewall clearance makes it a less than pleasurable job. Most shops that have to do engine work will actually lift the entire body off instead.
There's no reason to pull an engine just to do timing chains. Just the fan/shroud, valve covers, PS pump, and the belt tensioner. It's not that bad of a job really to get to the chains. Read my other post on the trick for getting the fan off.
I haven't gotten to the point of putting new chains on yet so I can't comment on that part of the job yet. The video makes it look pretty easy as long as the cams don't move.
Here are three different web links I have saved pertaining to setting up timing chains. One is going to be a duplicate to the one I put in your other thread:
Wow, I'll stick to taking the fan, shroud, radiator, etc off instead.
One question I DO have though. Will I have to take off the valve covers to replace those tensioners and guides or does the cover come off without the need to take them off ? Is there a step-by-step guide to remove the cover anywhere ? Thanks in advance. Great info.
It's not that bad of a job really to get to the chains.
I'm thinking about passing on the chains right now. The plan is to replace the tensioners and guides for now. The first link you supplied does a great job explaining the procedure to getting the cover off. I don't think I saw anything about the valve covers. Do these stay on if I'm not changing the chains ?
I'm thinking about passing on the chains right now. The plan is to replace the tensioners and guides for now. The first link you supplied does a great job explaining the procedure to getting the cover off. I don't think I saw anything about the valve covers. Do these stay on if I'm not changing the chains ?
The valve covers need to come off to take off the timing chain cover.
If you're going to replace the tensioners and you have to tear down the engine that far. I would say to replace the chains as well. Personally I would not want to go through all of that again. Also a tensioner failing at 150k miles is not a poorly designed part in my opinion. One failing at 50k, yes, but not 150k.
If you're going to replace the tensioners and you have to tear down the engine that far. I would say to replace the chains as well. Personally I would not want to go through all of that again. Also a tensioner failing at 150k miles is not a poorly designed part in my opinion. One failing at 50k, yes, but not 150k.
Agreed .
I strongly suggest that you check the condition of your rod bearings and crankshaft before making a decision on just the guides and chains. It would be very bad to complete one job and then find that there are more issues that should have been addressed. I would, at least, check the last 2 on the crankshaft, that would be #s 4 and 8 rod bearings. you will need to check the top bearing shell, not just the lower half, as the compression pressure is on the top half on the rods and the bottom half on the mains.
It's not too bad of a job to check now that you have the pan off.
Good luck with it.
You need to clean very throughly due to grit, it may have pushed past the filter as by-pass operated. The oil galeries, the small orfice areas, and the VCT screens may all be contaminated. Clean now, new bearings if needed and parts up front for sure. Having to do the job right away again will get very expensive. That grit is bad news. Internal components of the motor are most certainly full of it. That's the safest bet. The chains probably chewed into the front of the block and cover putting metal and guide mess everywhere. The build up on the screen of the oil pickup is just part of what happens. I would check the internals of the oil pump, it could be junk now. I could expect this to get costly if not properly done.
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