rear brake job
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
If not, it's very easy.
You should replace cylinders in pairs. It's probably not going to affect braking performance if you don't, but if one is leaking the other may not be far behind. Besides, they're cheap.
- Remove the brake line from the back of the cylinder. If you live in a rusty state, then try using PB blaster or some kind of rust penetrant. Even so, there is a chance you can twist the line off. If you do, don't panic, but you will need to replace the line.
- Unbolt the wheel cylinder from the backing plate.
- installation is the reverse of removal
- bleed the brakes. There is another thread in here today with a good description of how to bleed brakes.
You should replace cylinders in pairs. It's probably not going to affect braking performance if you don't, but if one is leaking the other may not be far behind. Besides, they're cheap.
- Remove the brake line from the back of the cylinder. If you live in a rusty state, then try using PB blaster or some kind of rust penetrant. Even so, there is a chance you can twist the line off. If you do, don't panic, but you will need to replace the line.
- Unbolt the wheel cylinder from the backing plate.
- installation is the reverse of removal
- bleed the brakes. There is another thread in here today with a good description of how to bleed brakes.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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how to remove wheel cylinder...
2 bolts and a brake line off. Doesn't want to budge. Do I need to take out what looks like a zirc fitting? That doesn't want to budge either...
Is there enough room to get the cylinder our from behind the big metal arc thing? The part from the top pivot down to the bottom, no idea what it's called but don't want to have to take it off if I don't have to.
One problem I have is knowing if I'm trying hard enough. I don't want to break anything, but I don't want to 'be a girl' and give up too soon.
It's a Louisiana truck, only been in rust country 1.5 winters, so things aren't too rusty yet.
thanks
lee
Is there enough room to get the cylinder our from behind the big metal arc thing? The part from the top pivot down to the bottom, no idea what it's called but don't want to have to take it off if I don't have to.
One problem I have is knowing if I'm trying hard enough. I don't want to break anything, but I don't want to 'be a girl' and give up too soon.
It's a Louisiana truck, only been in rust country 1.5 winters, so things aren't too rusty yet.
thanks
lee
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
The zerk fitting is the bleeder valve. It doesn't need to come out. If you have both bolts and the brake line off, all that's holding it in place is rust. A good whack with a hammer should take care of it.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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loose but cant get past that bracket
this is a F350 so I don't know if you have the big arc shaped bracket that starts at the top and curves down the rear of the hub and is attached to a line (I believe this is ebrake stuff) at the bottom. The cylinder bulges out a bit at the back, and it can't fit past the bracket.
Now what?
sounds like I have to take the bracket off, huh?
Now what?
sounds like I have to take the bracket off, huh?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Yes, that's the e-brake arm. All F-series drum brakes have it, but I know the F-350 brakes look a little different. I'm having a hard time picturing what you're describing though. It's been a few years since I worked on a truck like yours.
A pic would help if you can put one up.
A pic would help if you can put one up.
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Junior User
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sorry for the jpg size... computer not cooperating
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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hopefully you can see the conflict- the cylinder is 'out' but not free. Tried to remove ebrake bracket, of course I have a 15/32 socket that appears to fit, but no ratchet that fits it that will fit in the wheel well. (1/2 drive= long handle!)
another trip to NAPA....
another trip to NAPA....
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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cylinder is OUT!!
core charge refund will cover the cylinder replacement, so off to NAPA. Maybe I'll have a vehicle by tomorrow...
boy is that bracket horrible to put back on- it has a spring that has to be compressed while catching the nut in back. One side had a strong spring, the other side couldn't even tell there was ever a spring in there.
boy is that bracket horrible to put back on- it has a spring that has to be compressed while catching the nut in back. One side had a strong spring, the other side couldn't even tell there was ever a spring in there.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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replaced the wheel cylinder!!
do you remember where the bleeder valve is?
and do you have any wisdom about the zirc fitting on the new cylinder? I assume I'm supposed to put some grease in there- is there a special type or the same as already in the grease gun for the front end ... How do you tell how much?
the second side was easy to put together now that I've done one side. I;m actually glad I got the guts to do this, thanks for your help :-)
lee
and do you have any wisdom about the zirc fitting on the new cylinder? I assume I'm supposed to put some grease in there- is there a special type or the same as already in the grease gun for the front end ... How do you tell how much?
the second side was easy to put together now that I've done one side. I;m actually glad I got the guts to do this, thanks for your help :-)
lee
