I just filled that nipple with JB weld pretty easy to work them over for a flat plane like harte3 says....


just need the heat with this set up on the intake like.... works wonders

 

Well I drove it to work today (70 mile round trip) and it idles good and when I let the clutch out its a easy take off but when you give it throttle to accelerate it bogs BAD for a second then catches and runs strong but that bog SUCKS and with a 4 speed it happens at every shift, it also feels like its starving for fuel and surging at light cruising speeds with my foot just resting on the accelerator, I changed the squirter to a 37 but no change, guess the next thing I will try is changing the the power valve and if that doesnt work I will change the jets. it doesnt bog when sitting in nuetral and just reving up the motor, it just bogs under a load.

 

Is that with or without carb heat?

 

No carb heat as of yet, not to cold out but I am still looking for a heated spacer to install, from what I can gather this is the best settings for the 300 six with Offy and Holley 390cfm carb set up: Heated Carb spacer, #37 squirter, brown secondary spring, blue accelerator cam using #2 hole and an 8.5 power valve (or 1/2 of vaccum reading) Sound about right?

 

That does sound about right, with little bits of tweaking based on rear end ratio gearing and vehicle weight. But that's in the ballpark. May be able to decrease the squirter size when the carb heat's present.

And I honestly wouldn't diagnose it any further until you get carb heat. That makes a huge difference in drivability in most any weather.

 

Wow, that is amazing!

 

I would also wait until the heated spacer is in place as changing settings now will only have to be redone later.

once you have the heat in place first get the proper power valve in and go from there. On mine thats as far as I had to go from stock. I do get a very very small hesitation at times on the tip in from the idle circuit when it's cold but not really that big of an issue to me, I do plan on try'n the blue cam at some point on a cold rainy boring day just to see like but didn't have to really do anything to mine.

 

JMO I think heat to the manifold is more critical than heat to the carb for driveability whereas heat to the carb may be necessary to prevent icing when the conditions are right for it. I did have some icing problems with a 4360 spread bore carb I used even though I have manifold heat but part or all of the problem I think was I had to use a square bore/spread bore spacer between the carb and manifold. When I put the heated carb spacer on too that problem was fixed. When I went to the square bore carb I mounted it direct to the manifold and have not had an icing problem.

 

Love the air cleaner! Where'd you get it? Definately hope my bay will look that nice someday. Also surprised no one mentioned the fram oil filter.

 

I knew somebody wasn't going to leave that _____ filter alone.

 

Fram is a four-letter word...

But since you opened the ball,check this out: http://www.300cforums.com/forums/gen...dissected.html

 

Ok so in addition to upping the squirter to a #37, today I pulled the carb off, changed the accelerator pump cam to the blue cam and mounted in the #1 hole then used a .015 feeler gauge to adjust the pump arm tension, then turned both air idle screws in till they lightly seated then backed both out 1 1/2 turns, I re installed the carb and hooked a vaccum gauge to a full vaccum port, started the truck and adjusted air idle screws for best vaccum which is 17.5 on the gauge. then took it for a drive*****
it still has the off idle stumble, I am starting to think it may be in the distributor's vaccum advance. so I am trying to decide if a jet chage is in order or recurve the distributor, still looking for a heated carb spacer as well, but am doing the stuff I can do for free first, also Holley says the power valve is NOT blown if while the car is idleing you screw in both air idle screws and the car dies, if the car does not die and keeps running with the idle screws screwed all the way in then the power valve is blown.

 

Got the air cleaner off of Ebay but be forewarned that there are 4 bolts that hold it onto its base and it is a pain in the **** to find the holes because when mounted you can't see them, I made up some studs instead and that way it just drops onto the holes in the base and then I used wing nuts on the studs. Guess what I am saying is it's not an air cleaner you just pop on and off.

 

The jets basically only function for cruise and/or WOT mode. If you don't have heat to the manifold...and it has to be fully warmed up...you will be chasing your tail.

 

The reason I was thinking jets is that it has a slight surge at cruise speeds which may or may not be associated with the bog issue.